An earlier cathedral was destroyed by fire in 1067, shortly after the Norman Conquest and rebuilding began under the first Norman archbishop, Lanfranc, whose elaborate plans goaded the archbishop of York into a frenzy of building. Lanfranc had claimed primacy for his cathedral over York. York wasn’t having it and built its own cathedral, York Minster, on a scale to rival Canterbury. Read more about York Minster here.
Treasures to see on your visit
For such a big story, it’s surprising that today only a small altar marks the site of Thomas Becket’s murder in the cathedral. It was erected after the visit of Pope John Paul II to the cathedral. He commented that he had visited memorials to St Thomas Becket all over the world, but here in his own cathedral there was nothing to remember him by.
Becket’s body was taken to the crypt after his murder, today in that crypt you’ll find an evocative sculpture by the artist Antony Gormley, most famous for his Angel of the North artwork. Made from old iron nails taken from the repaired roof of the cathedral, it outlines the shape of a floating body and is suspended above the site of the first tomb of the archbishop.
Check out the medieval wall art in St Gabriel’s chapel – left intact throughout the Reformation as the chapel was walled up; the Great South Window, featuring some of the oldest stained glass in the world, dating from 1175, and considered to be one of the most famous works of English medieval painting; and the ship’s bell from HMS Canterbury, which is rang every day at 11am.
The Canterbury monks’ medieval priory is now the cathedral chapter house, with its own separate entrance through the cloisters outside. Monks often worked on transcribing manuscripts in the cloisters, where the light was better for doing such delicately detailed work. The priory dates from the Norman period with later Gothic additions. The timber ceiling is a rare example of a surviving 600-year-old design – most were destroyed by fire. The glass in the windows is Victorian, though the masonry surrounding them is medieval.
Important tombs include the grave of King Henry IV and the tomb of the Black Prince, Edward of Woodstock, the oldest son of Edward III, who died before he could inherit the throne.
Canterbury: cathedral city
Canterbury is surely one of the most atmospheric and attractive cities in England, with its medieval winding streets, river location and ancient city walls. It has been one of the country’s biggest attractions for centuries, from the pilgrims who came to pay homage to the shrine of Thomas Becket in the cathedral to the countless numbers of tourists who flock there every year.
Where to stay: Take up residence in the cathedral grounds – Canterbury Cathedral Lodge is a comfortable modern hotel and conference centre that offers you the chance to wake up to stunning cathedral views. Not only that, you get free admission to the cathedral and can go in and out as many times as you like.
What to do: The Canterbury Heritage Museum showcases everything from the city’s Roman history to the assassination of Thomas Becket, and the museum also houses the Rupert Bear Museum. Mary Tourtel, who created Rupert, was a Canterbury local.
For more history and a deeper look into Canterbury’s Roman past, there’s the Roman Museum or you can get cultural at the Beaney House of Art & Knowledge, with its museum and art gallery. The Eastbridge Hospital, set up for pilgrims, soldiers and the elderly in 1180, is also well worth a visit for its Romanesque undercroft, chapel and 16th century almshouses, all sitting across Britain’s most ancient road bridge, which is over 800 years old.
Nearby, St Martin’s Church is the oldest parish church in England in continuous use and you can also visit the ruins of Augustine’s Abbey, which is part of Canterbury’s World Heritage Site and dates from 597. A small museum on the site tells the story of the re-establishment of Christianity in all of England from here.
Cathedrals of Britain: London and the South East by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword and on sale for £12.99
]]>There’s a llama nuzzling my chin. Her name is Truffle, she’s just turned 16-months-old and I’m about to take her for a walk.
I first became aware of the phenomenon of llama treks last year, over in Ireland watching a travel programme about a trip to a B&B in the countryside. Where they had llamas. And people took these llamas for a walk and it was calming, and it was restful, and it looked wonderful – a new form of mindfulness (being in the moment with a llama) and a more interesting way of meditating (thinking about a llama while walking). I googled llama treks and found a few places around Ireland that offered them. I read up on them all, then returned to London and did nothing more about it.
But the llama universe was clearly looking out for me. Because just six weeks later I had an invite from the Merry Harriers Inn in Surrey – not too far from where I live – for an overnight visit. And they had llamas…
I meet all ten of the llamas before we set off on the trek. Mungo is coming with us – he’s a few years older than Truffle and he’ll be walking with Fi – she’s a human (who says she has the best job in the world, leading llama treks year-round, weather permitting). I also meet Lorenzo, the baby of the family, just 8-months-old and too young yet for treks.
Llamas are friendly creatures, curious and loving and beautiful to look at. They are the stuff of viral videos. And they smile. Kittens – so over!
The only thing is, because they have three stomachs, they really like to eat a lot, spend 16 hours a day feeding – and don’t intend to stop just because they’re walking. So, I spend a substantial amount of the time trying to coax Truffle out of the hedges and away from foliage as we walk. With my inordinate charm? No, with a box of carrots, literally dangling a carrot in front of her to move her along. It’s quite a treat having her snuffle them out of my open palm though. Llamas, it turns out, also have ridiculously soft faces.
Treks take a couple of hours through the fields and countryside paths behind the Merrier Harriers inn. Or you can make a real trip of it and take a picnic (the llamas will carry the picnic basket and you can even have champagne).
When I’m not hanging out with llamas, I’m chilling in my shepherd’s hut or hobnobbing with the locals in the bar. There are five luxury huts set up in a field across the road from the inn and if this is a shepherd’s life, sign me up for a flock and crook now.
The inn also has accommodation in rooms over the pub or in pretty garden huts out the back (with views of the llamas). The inn itself is a 16the century pub – watercolours of it hang in Tate Britain – and serves food all day, with much of the produce sourced locally (some of it from their own garden).
The nearest station is Milford and trains run every hour from Clapham Junction, journey time is 40 minutes and then it’s a 10-minute taxi ride to the inn. If you’re driving, it’s off the A3 – follow the signs Milford and Haslemere.
The Merry Harriers is located in Hambledon in the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It is rather outstandingly beautiful. But mainly, there are llamas.
OWN YOUR OWN LLAMA (mug): And now, the smiling llama has become immortalised in ‘mug’ – as part of a fundraising appeal to raise money for Macmillan Cancer Support, set up by Lenses of Croydon. Photographer Robert Wilson Jr is a member of the group and donated this fabulous llama pic as part of the project. Read more and buy the mug here. (Other mugs are also available!)
I also wrote about the experience for The Scotsman – you can read the article here (it’s on page 2 – don’t panic
The Merry Harriers, Hambledon Road, Surrey GU8 4DR; phone 01428 682883; email enquiries@merryharriers.com. Inn rooms from £115 per night, garden rooms £110, shepherds’ huts £195, B&B
Photos copyright Rob Wilson Jnr at Fluid4Sight and Merry Harriers
800 years ago, this place was a monastery. Monks climbed the stairs of this abbey, passed under the vaulted ceilings, enjoyed the sunlight through these huge stained-glass windows.
But they didn’t walk on carpet on their way to eat in a Michelin-starred dining room. They didn’t rock in the huge wooden swing by the lake. Nor would they have crossed the hump-backed bridge to the tiny island with its trees and treehouse.
Back then there were no swings or treehouses and the lake was a sewage facility for the 12th century monastery. Now the lake is a home to ducks and a family of herons, and the abbey-turned-hotel has been sympathetically preserved by an English family to display its wonderful architecture to a whole new generation of worshipers.
Only now we come to admire the beauty of the building, the gourmet food and the tranquil setting instead of God. But if you have any spiritual awareness at all, you’ll quickly find this beautiful place resonating with your soul.
There are 20 rooms in total at the Abbaye de la Bussière explains owner Clive Cummings when he picks us up at Dijon train station, a half hour drive from the abbey, including rooms in the main house as well as the various other buildings around the grounds, some of which have been converted into family suites.
There are two restaurants, again with soaring arches and magnificent architecture. The fine dining Michelin-starred restaurant is a grand affair with stone arches and chandeliers and offers both a tasting menu – matched with wines – and an a la carte, with choices including frogs’ legs, local freshwater zander and pigeon. But in fairness, the quality of the food is just as good in the hotel bistro, pictured below.
Our cosy double is nestled under the eaves with views of the gardens and lake. As befits its luxurious setting, it’s kitted out with a Nespresso machine and a welcome bottle of home-made peach liqueur – there’s a jacuzzi bath in the bathroom, fluffy robes and slippers in the wardrobe.
Day 1
It’s the day after the hottest day of the year. Two Uber drivers have just cancelled my booking, so I take my walking stick and my suitcase and haul myself and it onto the bus. I arrive at East Croydon train station, knowing already I’ve missed the train I wanted to catch.
It doesn’t matter. The heat is still melting overhead lines and the train schedules are up the walls. Eventually I get on one, arrive at Horsham exactly one hour later than planned and jump in a taxi for the 20-minute drive to the Simply Healing Retreat, where I’m about to have nothing except juice for 3 days.
A call on my mobile from the engineer who’s arrived to fix my internet, claiming he’s outside my house getting no response to the bell – I know my flatmate is in there – means I arrive in a cloud of expletives, trying to reassure the man he will get in, calling my flatmate to see where the hell he is, phoning my upstairs neighbour to see if she’s around and scaring the taxi driver, who drives off quickly after leaving me at the door.
I stand outside a rather lovely red-bricked country house surrounded by gardens and rolling fields, shouting into my phone as somebody tiptoes out of the house, picks up my suitcase and takes it inside, smiling and nodding at me, telling me to take my time.
I hang up and take a deep breath. Here the heat isn’t as oppressive as in London, there’s a gentle breeze and rustling leaves. There are sunloungers and sculptures in the gardens and a hanging swing under some trees. I step inside to a quiet peaceful space with couches, take another breath and think, wow, I’m glad I didn’t come shouting in here.
Later, after I’ve checked into my room – a gorgeous light-filled space with views of the garden – changed into my robe and padded back down in my slippers to the treatment room for my body scrub, I feel totally relaxed.I’ve left bad Uber drivers, messed up trains, mixed up internet appointments and my grumpy self behind. And because I had a big hunk of bread and blue cheese before I left the house, I don’t yet feel hungry.
At 4.30 there’s ‘afternoon (herbal) tea’ at reception (just tea, no sandwiches, cake or scones sadly) and I meet some of my fellow ‘inmates’ who’ve been here a few days. Two of them say they’ve done nothing but sleep for their first full day and I think, good on you, sleep is hugely underrated in this life. There are 8 of us here for the weekend, everybody has their own story, all of us wanting to detox and relax for one reason or another.
It’s a great place to swap stories and information and most people here have come on personal recommendations so I hear many positive Simply Healing success stories. The guests who’ve been here for a few days are already looking refreshed and glowing – ‘honestly, you wouldn’t believe the difference in her since she arrived’, one man tells me about a fellow guest, and I wonder if I’ll be radiant too when I leave. Then I go out to the garden and spend half an hour swinging on the lounger under the trees.
At 5.30pm I have my first juice – something green with celery – and then meditation at 7 – a guided journey led by Vivien, the shamanic healer who runs the retreat. And I’m delighted to find that at 7.30 we have soup! Detox soup albeit – pea, lettuce and mint – but soup nonetheless. My teeth fall excitedly on shreds of lettuce and two whole peas, chewing enthusiastically.
I don’t start to feel hungry until around about 9pm, back in my room, tucked up for the night. There are TVs and DVD players in our rooms – with lots of DVDs to borrow from the big book-filled sitting room downstairs – but we’re encouraged to keep the volume low to allow others to rest, with everything turned off by 10.30pm. Mobiles are not allowed in the public areas and we’re reminded to speak softly when using them in our rooms.
My stomach is rumbling uncomfortably but – prepared for hunger – I’ve brought the latest Jo Nesbo thriller with me, Knife. If the antics of his depressed alcoholic detective Harry Hole can’t keep my mind off food, nothing can.
Day 2
I’ve gone to sleep starving, fantasising about juicy burgers smothered in fried onions and blue cheese. I rarely eat burgers, much less blue cheese, my detox seems to have uncovered my inner burger fan. But I wake up at 7am feeling okay. Not hungry. Not full. Just normal.
There’s hot water with lemon at reception where we detoxers discuss our night’s sleep (up every hour to pee, recounts one – toxins clearly coming out). There should have been a walk around the deer farm and through the fields this morning but, unlike yesterday’s searing temperatures, today is grey and wet.
Then it’s time for juice at 8.30am, which is served communal style in the large dining room. I spotted a biscuit barrel in the corner as soon as I walked in here yesterday – sadly empty (natch).
There’s a nice social aspect to the retreat, as we all gather together to drink juice, but it’s easy to have as much time as you want to yourself also – everybody has their own schedule of timed treatments.
There’s an exercise room with power plates and a chi machine, which is an interesting piece of equipment. Big with the Japanese, it works by moving the legs gently from side to side to circulate blood efficiently around the body, helping cells to absorb oxygen and remove toxins. Chi is the Chinese word for ‘life force energy’ and our life force energies can do with a helping hand from time to time.
I have reflexology at 9am, a lovely treatment that establishes I have no major issues with my body parts – replaced hip aside. I find reflexology fascinating. A sort of foot massage for the soles of the feet, it claims that every part of the body is connected to the bottom of the foot and by working on each section of the foot, therapists can help to heal the related body part. Sound crazy? I’ve had very accurate diagnoses from it, so don’t rule it out even though Wikipedia will tell you there “is no convincing evidence that reflexology is effective for any medical condition”. And I’m told I look “blissful” by one of the other guests after my treatment – so don’t tell me there is no benefit to this!
Then it’s juice at 11, 1 and 2.30, afternoon tea at 4.30, more juice at 5.30, meditation at 7 and carrot and sweet potato soup at 7.30. I also have a manual lymphatic drainage massage at 1.30 so it’s a packed schedule here – no lazing around detoxing for us! It does help to keep hunger at bay for a while – all that wandering down to the dining room, going for treatments, strolling out to the garden to sit on a sun-lounger. And all that drinking of juice – all freshly prepared, a different recipe each time. And I probably should point out that nobody else on the retreat feels hungry as they are all taking supplements with their juices to help with their cleansing. Just me then…
I’ve practically been put into a coma by my lunchtime massage, so deeply relaxing is the experience, so have to indulge in a half-hour nap back in my room. Where they’ve thoughtfully replaced yesterday’s velvet throw with a snuggly fur one in deference to the weather.
But despite it all, I’m still hungry by early evening, with the beginnings of a slight headache. I’ve had to stop reading the second book I’ve brought with me, Is Butter A Carb? Unpicking Fact from Fiction in the World of Nutrition. All that talk of proteins and fats is making me salivate.
I go for a walk with a few of my companions around the next-door deer farm to keep my mind off it. No deer in sight. Probably just as well. I can’t stop thinking about venison. There’s a slight uphill incline on the way home which has us all puffing slightly and for some God unknown reason, we’ve talked about nothing but food on the entire journey.
Still, that night I turn on the lamps in my bedroom, cosy up with my fur blanket on the couch, and let Harry Hole take my mind off everything again.
Day 3: the final day
I’m definitely hungry when I wake up on day 3 but also happy, looking forward to the salad I will be having for lunch. Yes, it’s my last day today and I get to have a salad before I go, introducing my body back to solids gradually. Vivien, who runs Simply Healing, recommends that we introduce light food gradually once we leave, stick to the juicing and carry on drinking the four bottles of water we’re encouraged to take every day. We’re all issued with water bottles with our names on them on arrival and I’ve been carrying mine with me everywhere.
Vivien is an interesting person. A trainer healer and shaman, she has run the Simply Healing Retreat in Sussex for the past 20 years and counts celebrities and Royal Families among her guests. She has worked all over the world, starting in California where she introduced her juice retreats 30 years ago, after using the technique to manage her own health issues. She’s run healing clinics all over the UK and Ireland, led pilgrimages to sacred sites in Peru, Egypt and Mexico and still leads tours to meet the shamans of Manu Picchu every year.
The Sussex retreat has a massive 68% visitor return rate and there’s no doubt from leafing through the visitors’ book at reception that guests have experienced amazing benefits from their time here. With people returning for the second, third and fourth times, comments describe the programmes as “life-changing”, “heart-warming”, “mind-opening” and “amazing – didn’t want to leave”. “I lost my weight and found myself” says one poignant entry.
Guests also pay tribute to the support they receive from staff – all of the therapists are highly qualified and experienced and have worked with Vivien for many years, because “they like it here”, she explains. Running the retreat with her daughter, she bought the house to open it to others and carry on her healing work. In addition to the prescribed detox and weight-loss programmes, additional treatments, including one-to-one sessions with Vivien herself, are available as add-ons. Groups are kept small, 12 guests is the maximum number the house can hold but 10 is the average – the weekend I visit, there are just 8 of us.
And while our bodies have sophisticated mechanism for detoxing themselves – namely our liver, kidneys, gut, skin and lungs (as my nutrition book Is Butter A Carb? reminded me before hunger drove me to put it down) – it really does help to step out of our busy lives occasionally to take a good look at how we’re eating and how we’re living. It’s easy to get into bad habits when life is too rushed, too fast, too stressed – and it’s of no help at all to our guts, liver, kidneys and the rest to live like this.
Having a routine is a good way to make a change and I enjoy the regular juice times during the retreat, vowing to stick to something similar back at home. Most of my days kick off to an erratic start, with lots of rushing around. Making time in the morning to take some juice, eat a mindful breakfast and fill up a water bottle is a much better option – it will just take a bit of organising.
And now it’s time for me to leave. I’ve had my detox massage after my morning juice, taken a stroll around the grounds, drank more juice, rocked in the swing, eaten my lunch-time salad and had a quick chat with Vivien – she gives each guest a personalised one-to-one consultation before they leave, offering advice on incorporating elements of the detox diet into everyday life.
Okay, I admit it, I had a bar of chocolate as soon as I got to the train station for the journey home. And it tasted glorious. But since I’ve been back I’ve continued to juice every morning, keep a water bottle beside me to sip from throughout the day and am eating lots of fresh vegetables and fruit.
My skin looks clearer and my eyes are brighter. I feel a bit lighter, less bloated. But more importantly, I have a healthy routine now which fits in easily with my everyday lifestyle. While our bodies don’t constantly need to go through the extremes of detoxing, it’s certainly useful to take a step back and re-adjust bad habits. It has certainly helped me.
Read my Simply Healing review in The Scotsman
The Simply Healing Detox Retreat, West Sussex, offers 5, 7 or 10 day detox and weight-loss programmes, as well as weekend retreats; for more information visit www.simplyhealingcentre.com, call 01403 822117 or email info@simplyhealingcentre.com
Twinkling lights, carol singers, mulled wine – and lots of beautiful Christmas goodies. Christmas markets at home and abroad are about so much more than the shopping. Whether you’re keeping it local or treating yourself to trip abroad, we’ve got the low-down on the very best markets across the UK and Europe. And, once you’ve packed your bags with handmade decorations and festive foods, check out our list of top British shopping destinations to bag even more Christmas bargains.
Frankfurt
26 November to 22 December
The Frankfurt Christmas Market is one of the largest and oldest in Germany and has been running since the 14th century in the scenic surrounds of the Römerberg. Fill your bags with its traditional wooden toys, giant sugar-coated biscuits, German sausages and the miniature candy figures called Brenten, Bethmaennchen and Quetschemaennchen. And don’t forget to take time to admire the huge Christmas tree outside the town hall, one of the largest in the country.
Cologne
26 November to 23 December
Cologne has no less than seven Christmas markets – but not only that. One of its biggest takes place beside the city’s magnificent cathedral, where the bodies of the three wise men are said to be buried, pictured above. You’ll find arts and crafts and lots of delicious food across the city and, down in front of the medieval gate, a whole village dedicated to St Nicholas. There’s a maritime themed Harbour market, a romantic Christmas village, an LGBT celebration market and, at the oldest market of all in Neumarkt, a flock of wandering angels.
Nuremberg
30 November to 24 December
Christkindlemarkt in this medieval Bavarian city has a long tradition, running in the central square since the 17th century. No mass-produced tat here, only fine handicrafts and designs. Pick up a traditional ‘prune man’ to take home – but don’t eat him, he is purely for decoration and believed to bring good fortune to the home that displays him. There’s a ‘Kinderweihnacht’ children’s market with merry-go-round and steam railway and the ‘Christkind’, the young child that takes the place of Santa to bestow gifts in this region.
Salzburg
22 November to 26 December
One of the oldest Christmas markets in the world, the Salzburg Christkindlmarkt is held in the heart of Salzburg’s World Heritage-listed Old City, with its backdrop of snow-covered mountains. After you’ve shopped for traditional Christmas decorations and gifts, check out the carol concerts, readings and parades taking place around the squares. Sample a spicy Bosna sandwich and wash down with some gluhwein – pay a few euros extra to keep the mug it is served in for a festive memento of your visit.
Paris
November to January
Enjoy three Christmas markets in this atmospheric city this year. Over 70 chalets make up the Christmas Village in Les Halles, selling traditional gifts, decorations and food, as well as an Enchanted Forest and Santa’s House for the kids (27 November to 31 December). Over at Champ de Mars you’ll find festive stalls and a skating rink underneath the Eiffel Tower from December until January, while the traditional Christmas market at Notre Dame Cathedral runs from December 15 until Christmas Eve.
Lille
17 November to 27 December
An easy trip from London – just an hour and a half on Eurostar – Lille’s Christmas market is located in the centre of town, just 10 minutes’ walk from the station. There are 80 stalls on the Place Rihour and a huge Christmas tree and Ferris wheel on nearby Grand Place.
Dubrovnik
2 December to 6 January
Unlike the centuries-old festive celebrations in Germany and Austria, the Winter Festival in this atmospheric medieval walled city is just four years old, but none the less beautiful for it. The main street, Stradun, is transformed into a twinkling marketplace selling gifts and festive foods, there’s snow at the bell tower and regular carol concerts in front of the magnificent St Blaise’s Church.
Our favourite Christmas markets in the UK
London
November to January
From festive chalets at the Southbank to Winter Wonderland at Hyde and Christmas By the River close to Tower Bridge, the capital city will be fully festived up this Christmas. And if that wasn’t enough, Leicester Square is also joining the fun – decking itself out in full seasonal marketplace splendour from November 9 to January 5. See more magical things to do in London for Christmas.
Winter Wonderland Hyde Park
November 22 to January 6
The Hyde Park extravaganza returns for its 12th year and its huge Christmas market features over 200 Bavarian style wooden chalets, packed with festive gifts, designer arts and crafts and traditional Christmas food and drink. Afterwards you could go skating on the UK’s biggest ice rink, visit the Magical Ice Kingdom, the Enchanted Forest and Santa Land, sample not one but two circuses or hang out in one of the themed bars, including a fabulously freezing Ice Bar.
Southbank Centre’s Winter Market
November 9 to December 27
With Alpine-style huts by the river, brightly lit up with fairy lights and showcasing the wares of 29 traders from around the world, the Southbank Winter Market is one of the most popular in the capital. This year it’s featuring two new pop-up bars, Bar Under the Bridge and The Circus Bar, offering tastebud-tingling cocktails and festive food in cosy hideaways by the river.
Christmas by the River
November 29 to January 2
With stunning views of the Tower of London, Tower Bridge and the iconic City of London skyline, this is one of most scenic Christmas market under the stars. Browse fabulously festive finds, as well as traditional food and drink and try one of the free workshops running in December.
Bath
22 November 22 to 9 December
A magical market in one of the UK’s most beautiful cities, it’s not hard to see why Bath remains one of the best loved Christmas destinations in the country. Over 200 twinkling chalets line the atmospheric Georgian streets around the picturesque Roman Baths and the Abbey. Snap up handmade and locally-produced buys, including festive food, gifts and decorations.
York
15 November to 23 December
Equally atmospheric, the medieval laneways and cobbled streets of York make a wonderful backdrop to the city’s annual Christmas market. You’ll find chalet market stalls at St Nicholas Fair and local food and drink finds at Yorkshire Barn.
Birmingham
15 November to 23 December
If you can’t make it to Frankfurt, head for Birmingham instead. The city’s Frankfurt Christmas Market is the UK’s largest German market, featuring over 200 stalls. It’s also the largest German market held outside Germany and Austria and attracts over 3 million visitors to the city every year. From German food and drink to traditional decorations and gifts in Victoria Square, local craftspeople and artists sell their festive wares in the Christmas Craft Fair next door.
Edinburgh
16 November to 5 January
The Scottish capital is sporting two festive markets this year, with the traditional East Princes Street Gardens market offering Christmas shopping in the heart of the city, as well as a big wheel and fairground rides. It runs until January 5. Meanwhile the George St Christmas market runs until Christmas Eve, with festive stalls, Santa’s grotto and ice skating.
Winchester
17 November to 20 December
One of the largest Christmas markets in the south of England, Winchester also enjoys one of the most spectacular backdrops, with its 100 wooden chalets ranged around its stunning medieval cathedral. As well as arts, crafts, decorations and food, visitors to the festive celebration can also enjoy an open-air ice rink in Cathedral Close.
Other cathedral city Christmas markets this year include Salisbury, from November 29 to December 23 in Guildhall Square, Canterbury market at Whitefriars Square and the wonderfully original Dickens Christmas Festival in Rochester on December 1 and 2, featuring festive street entertainment, famous literary characters and a 2-day Christmas market.
Leeds
9 November to 22 December
Promising a continental-style festive shopping experience and offering German festive delicacies, Millennium Square in Leeds will play host to over 40 traditional wooden chalets as it transforms into a winter village for Christmas this year. Other attractions include the popular Christmas carousel, the indoor Frankfurter Scheune meeting hall and Alp Chalet Bavarian eatery.
Cardiff
15 November to 23 December
Taking place across the pedestrianised shopping area in the city centre, the Cardiff Christmas market this year promises an eclectic mix of new stalls and old favourites offering original and handmade buys and festive food and drink.
Getting there: travel to Europe
Interrail One Country Passes let you start your journey from your local station and get in to the heart of the country you’re travelling to from just £47; visit MyInterrail.co.uk for more information.
Getting there: fly from UK
Flybmi is offering special deal ‘Christmas market flights’ from Bristol, East Midlands, Aberdeen and Newcastle to 10 European cities including Frankfurt, Munich, Hamburg and Paris, with prices starting from £75 and including 23kg checked baggage (to bring all your goodies home!), complimentary in-flight drinks and snacks and allocated leather seating. For more information visit Flybmi
Getting there: travelling in the UK
Invest in a railcard to help you save one third off most rail fares and 60% off kids’ fares when using a Family & Friends railcard. Railcards can save you an average of £152 per year and cost just £30 – a cost which you can make back in just one trip! Visit Railcard.co.uk to find out more.
Christmas packages
For travel and accommodation in the UK and abroad, SuperBreak has a variety of packages to choose from for destinations including Edinburgh, York, Liverpool, Paris, Bruges and more, from £110 per person. Visit the website for more information.
Christmas shopping: bag a bargain
Where the savvy shoppers go for great Christmas bargains right across the UK
Bicester Village, Oxfordshire
Over 160 outlets offering savings up to 60% on standard retail prices, from brands including Prada, Gucci, Armani and Versace, Superdry, The White Company and the Cosmetics Company Store. Just one hour away from London with regular bus and train services.
Cheshire Oaks, Chester
Close to both Manchester and Liverpool, over 145 designer outlets include Burberry, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Cath Kidston, All Saints and Hobbs to name just a few, with play areas for kids, a leisure park and regular entertainment.
Birmingham
The Bullring is the city’s biggest shopping centre and there’s also the canalside Mailbox with its mix of designer shops, restaurants and bars.
Bluewater, Kent
The third largest shopping centre in the UK has over 330 stores and over 167,000 square metres of retail space centrally located close to London.
Looking for more festive fun? See our round-up of magical things to do in London for Christmas
More great shopping ideas
Even if you have only a short time to spend in Dublin, you’ll find it easy to pack in a lot in this compact and exciting capital city where the Guinness and the craic flow freely. So, whether you’re a first-timer, culture vulture, foodie, shopper or determined tourist on search for as many leprechauns as you can fit into your wheelie bag, my suggestions for the best things to do in Dublin has something to suit everyone.
Dublin for first-timers
If it’s your first trip to Dublin – or even if you’ve visited before but are keen to get an insider’s view – sign up online for City of a Thousand Welcomes before you leave home. You’ll be paired up with a Dubliner who will take you off for a chat and drink at one of three brilliant local venues – the über-chic five-star Merrion Hotel, the ‘old Dublin’ institution Bewley’s Café or the vibrant Porterhouse bar and micro-brewery. The service is free, the Dubliners have volunteered their time and the cost of the drinks is covered by the nice people at the Little Dublin Museum who run the service.
Allow some time to have a look around the museum (admission free) when you call in to hook up with your Dubliner – the city’s newest museum is devoted to recent social, political and cultural history covering everything from U2 and James Joyce to the Easter 1916 Rising and Queen Victoria’s visit. Have a chat with Godfrey, the chatty tour guide who’s full of ‘behind the scenes stories’ – see if you can tempt him out for a drink with your volunteer.
Brush up on your ancient Irish history with a trip to the National Museum of Ireland (admission free), or pop into the crypt at Christ Church cathedral– above; dating from the 11th century, it’s the oldest building in Dublin and one of the largest medieval crypts in Ireland and the UK. Here you’ll find an exhibition of the cathedral’s treasures (they survived because they were in no one’s way, according to the guide), a really interesting video presentation of the church’s history, and the mummified remains of a cat and rat who got stuck in the organ pipes in the 1860s. They also turned up over 60 years later in James Joyce’s ‘Finnegans Wake’. The crypt’s coffee shop is a great place to stop off for a cuppa – it’s one of the most atmospheric coffee shops in Europe.
Dublin for culture vultures
For a small city, Dublin packs a big cultural punch. Former home to Nobel prizewinning writers WB Yeats, George Bernard Shaw and Samuel Beckett (who now has a bridge named after him), as well as Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, Brendan Behan, Jonathan Swift and Bram Stoker; contemporary authors in residence include Roddy Doyle, Sebastian Barry, John Banville and Marian Keyes. So, as you can imagine, the Dublin Writers’ Museum in Parnell Square has a lot to talk about!
The James Joyce Centre is at 35 North Great George’s St, close to the city centre, and you’ll find Shaw’s birthplace at 33 Synge St, Dublin 8, a 10-minute walk from central St Stephen’s Green.
There’s a small but perfectly formed exhibition of exotic artefacts including illuminated manuscripts, rare books and paintings at the Chester Beatty Library in Dublin Castle (admission free); its Silk Road restaurant and coffee shop is one of the best in the city. The Irish Museum of Modern Art in the former Royal Hospital, Kilmainham, on the outskirts of the city, has a permanent collection with an emphasis on works from the 1940s onwards, as well as visiting exhibitions.
Take in a theatre production at The Abbey, which Yeats helped set up as a home for nationalist Irish writing in the early 20th century – the scene of riots during first productions of The Playboy of the Western World where the nationalist Irish community took great exception to talk about women’s undergarments (a slip!) as being very ‘un-nationalist’. You’ll find theatre with a more international slant at The Gate.
Speaking of the Yeats family, you’ll find several works by Jack B Yeats, including his iconic Dublin masterpiece The Liffey Swim, below, as well as many of his sketchbooks, at the National Gallery of Ireland, which recently went through a major refurbishment. It’s the perfect way to kick off a browse around the gallery’s main collection and familiarise yourself with other Irish artists such as John Lavery, Paul Henry, Louis Le Brocquy and Walter Osbourne.
Dublin for foodies
If you’re in need of refreshment after your turn around the National Gallery, pop across the road for The Merrion hotel’s afternoon Art Tea. Drink tea and eat cakes inspired by the hotel’s very impressive Irish art collection and stroll around the beautiful Georgian rooms afterwards to admire the paintings.
If words, not pictures, are your thing head down the road to The Westin hotel, opposite Trinity College, for its Most Peculiar Afternoon Tea. Inspired by James Joyce, it features ‘Joycean nibbles’ from his works, like pork cheek, roast beef and smoked salmon savouries, banana bread with honey butter, and clever sweet treats that include popping marshmallows, pannacotta with popcorn and a super good chocolate and caramel sea salted brownie. It all kicks off with a ‘Victorian Mojito’ – served in a teapot!
For blow-the-budget fine dining try the multi-starred Patrick Guilbaud restaurant at The Merrion; for chips after a few pints of Guinness on your way home from the pub head for Leo Burdock’s in the shadow of Dublin Castle (if you don’t fancy the walk up the hill, Rick’s Burgers on Dame St near Trinity does a mean bag of chips too). For sweet treats and possibly the best hot chocolate you will ever taste, stop off at one of Butler’s Chocolate Cafés around the city.
The buzzing Temple Bar area has plenty of bars and restaurants for lunch and evening dinner; other well-priced options for eating out at night are Crunch Café, Aungier St, The Larder, Parliament St and – for an affordable treat – The Winding Stair on Lower Ormond Quay overlooking the Ha’penny Bridge.
Dublin for tourists
For a real – and literal – taste of the Irish social scene in action, don’t bother with a fancy wine bar or gourmet pub, head for ‘old Dublin’ haunts like Neary’s in Chatham St (just off main shopping drag Grafton St and known to tourists as ‘The Chatham’ – well, that is the name over the door!), and the Stag’s Head. Both are lively spots to strike up a conversation and, yes, the locals are very friendly.
But the city is not all about drinking. And while missing out on the pub experience would be missing a key part of what the city has to offer, there are plenty of things to do in Dublin for every interest.
You just have to do it if you’re a tourist – visit ‘the home of Guinness’, the Guinness Storehouse at St James’ Gate, with its historical tour, 360º views of the city and – of course – one of the tastiest glasses of Guinness you will ever sample, right where it’s made.
The National Leprechaun Museum on Jervis St reveals the ‘truth’ about the Irish version of ‘little green men’, with the story starting back at the first ever leprechaun sighting in the eighth century.
You’ll be able to access both on the Dublin Bus Tour, a hop-on, hop-off service that takes you round all of the city’s main attractions – the best way to familiarise yourself quickly with Dublin’s history and landmarks, and perfect if you are on a short trip.
Dublin for shoppers
Pedestrianised Grafton St is the heart of shopping in the city, with high-street brands and chic department store Brown Thomas (Dublin’s answer to Harvey Nichols). Nearby, the George’s St Arcade is great for quirky one-off pieces and vintage finds; while Avoca on Suffolk St is a bit of a treasure trove of great Irish designers, high-end fashion and stylish home buys. Jervis Centre, across the Liffey – around a 15-minute walk from Grafton St – is one of the best city-centre shopping centres, you’ll be able to see Dublin traders on the lively Moore Street market in action nearby.
Dublin hotels
You may fall in love with The Merrion hotel after your afternoon tea, most people do. So treat yourself to a room upstairs in the art-hung corridors, with views over Merrion Square and Government buildings, a bit like staying in Whitehall in London, just with more trees and a quirky statue of Oscar Wilde in the square outside. There’s a bronze James Joyce in the hotel garden off the terrace, you’ll pass it on your way down the glass corridor to the stylish spa. As well as the grand, but cosy, drawing rooms with ornate fireplaces and real fires, there’s a discreet bar with the feel of a gentleman’s club, perfect for an early G&T or a post-dinner brandy. The actor Gabriel Byrne was in one of the leather armchairs the evening we visited. (All of us being Irish nobody got too excited about being in close proximity to Irish-Hollywood celebrity.)
Housed in four Grade 1 listed Georgian townhouses, the hotel is all tall windows and high ceilings. That makes for very spacious bedrooms; ours had couches in front of the huge fireplace and could easily have fitted in that writing desk, which occupies its own room next door to the bathroom (gleaming white marble tiles and mirrors). If you’re feeling like Ireland, with its writers, poetry and Guinness-fuelled evenings, might just inspire that novel you’ve been meaning to write, this is the place you might even start it…
For more information and to book visit www.merrionhotel.com, call 00 353 1 603 0600 or email info@merrionhotel.com
A grand-turn-of-the-century mansion house hotel is a great place to play at being a duchess, as I found out
Tylney Hall is a very grand turn-of-the-century stately home hotel in 66 acres of Hampshire countryside. It’s very Downton Abbey – a family home for three and a half centuries, though the current building dates from 1901, it was used as a hospital during the First World War. And Highclere Castle, where Downton was filmed, is less than an hour’s drive away.
It’s been a home for the Tylneys (who owned a sizeable chunk of Hampshire in the 1700’s) and the Earl of Mornington (who demolished the 18th century mansion house so he could sell the timber in the surrounding woodlands – the terms of his inheritance stated he couldn’t fell it while the house was standing, easy that – he just knocked it down). Baronet Lionel Philips built the current house and after him came Lord and Lady Rotherwick who lived there until the 1940s, when the house was sold and became a school until 1984. It re-opened as a hotel in 1985 after being restored to its former glory.
It’s a building fit for a whole bevy of lords and ladies, dowager countesses, delicate Turkish princes and other distinguished guests. Sweep down the grand oak panelled staircase and make believe you’ve just been summoned by Carson’s gong for dinner. The wood was imported by the Baronet from Italy, probably around the same time he was shipping over an ornate ceiling from the Grimation Palace in Florence and installing it in what is now the Italian Lounge, popular for afternoon tea.
The Baronet’s library is still full of books, only now there’s a bar there as well. All of the lounges have huge fireplaces and – real! – open fires. Pastoral landscapes line the high-ceilinged corridors upstairs and there are suites for private parties and corporate meetings (the Hall is just an hour’s drive from London). Everywhere there are beautiful views of the grounds – formal gardens, woodland and wild meadows, a boathouse lake and sculpted fountains. Sit on the beautiful stone terrace and look down what is claimed to be the longest uninterrupted view in Hampshire – though you won’t be able to see the bomb shelter at the end from here. What a long scary run that must have been …
What are the rooms like?
The bedrooms in the main house have beautiful views over the formal Italian gardens and lake beyond (deluxe rooms from £220, garden view for £255). The rest of the 112 rooms are housed in the garden courtyards in former outhouses and have their own front doors opening onto lushly planted lawns. Great for families, you’ll be able to hear the ducks quacking in the nearby water garden. Or stay in one of the Orangery suites (from £430) and the ducks will be right on your doorstep.
My room is in the main house and has a huge marble fireplace and big bay windows. It’s a quirky blend of old and new – a shiny Nespresso machine on a leather-topped period table, an iPod dock on the retro mahogany desk. It’s a junior suite (from £360) so I have a couch and armchairs with a view of the lake.
What’s in the bathroom?
The shock of modernity! After all the floral soft furnishings and period furniture next door, the bathroom is a contemporary surprise. There’s a large corner bath, toiletries are by Molton Brown and the fluffy robes and slippers on the back of the door are standard in every room.
How’s the bed?
King size with a floral pelmet trim. The pillows are so vast and comfortable that I’m discussing them on Twitter at 7am the next morning – up with the sun for an early morning walk, country estates do that to me when they’re outside my window.
What about eating and drinking?
The Oak Room dining room was the Baronet’s smoking room, it’s a very grand space with a high Baroque ceiling, floor-to-ceiling windows and beautifully dressed, white linen-clothed tables. Gentlemen, ties please.
Sunday lunch is very popular with locals and hotel guests (from £29.50 for three courses) and evening dinner offers a Table d’hote menu (£31.50 for 2 courses, £39.50 for 3) or a la carte (£49.50 for 3 courses). Food is local as far as possible, with herbs and some veg from the hotel’s kitchen garden.
The chef sends out a smoked salmon amuse bouche to start the meal, and there’s a lady wheeling roast beef around in a large silver carving trolley. It’s all very old world and hospitable. There’s a pianist tinkling his way through classical and pop but I don’t stick around once I’ve finished my cheesecake – it’s 9pm, Downton time! What could be better than watching Downton Abbey while feeling like you’ve wandered into it?
Anything else?
There’s a leisure centre with gym and a snooker room – even if you don’t play, check out the fantastic black and white photos of Tylney as a private residence on the walls. There’s a spa offering Kerstin Florian treatments, as well as a light-filled indoor pool, whirlpool and saunas.
Come in the summer and laze on the loungers by the lovely outdoor pool in the garden. There are mapped-out walks around the grounds, as well as packs of games and adventures for families. There’s an 18-hole golf course if you’re that way inclined, tennis courts and a croquet lawn, plus the hotel can organise archery, falconry, horse riding and clay pigeon shooting for guests.
What’s nearby?
There’s plenty to keep you entertained if you tire of being a duchess. Basingstoke Leisure Park is a 15-minute drive, Legoland 40-minutes and Thorpe Park just 45. And you can be at Highclere Castle – the ‘real’ Downton Abbey – Winchester Cathedral or Stonehenge, all in under an hour.
Where is it and how do I book?
Tylney Hall Hotel is located at Rotherwick, Hook, in Hampshire. For information and booking contact the hotel on 01256 764881 or visit the website at www.elitehotels.co.uk.
It’s an exciting 24-hour destination – but you need to plan carefully to make the most of a short trip here.
You might not fly here for just one night, but New York is an exciting stop-over on a trip to the States and if you plan carefully you can easily fit in several of this city’s must-see landmarks in a one night/ two-day trip. Also, with cruise lines like NCL operating from the Hudson dock, it’s the perfect one night destination before heading for the high seas.
Manhattan magic
Stick to Manhattan if you’re strapped for time, it’s perfectly sized for walking and walking is the best way to get a sense of the city; from the views across the harbour at the tip of the island – take the free ferry to Staten Island for the best views of Manhattan skyline – right up to the 800 acres of Central Park.
Plan your walk to cover some of the city’s key areas:
Wall St and the commercial district at the tip of Manhattan – queue for a ticket for the Stock Exchange visitors’ gallery
Stylish SoHo (an abbreviation for SOuth of HOuston street – pronounced House-ton, expect looks of distain if you mispronounce) and Greenwich village, with quirky boutiques, hip hotels, happening bars and the uber-swish loft apartment of wealthy Manhattanites
The edgier Meatpacking district, the latest up and coming area since Greenwich and Soho up and came
Fifth Avenue for shopping, Broadway and Times Square for street-life and bustle
New York is a song that unfolds in your head as you walk, a simulated Woody Allen film set that feels hyper-real because it’s all so familiar.
One night in New York: What to do
Stay
The Sheraton on Seventh Avenue is within sight of the bright lights of Times Square and Broadway, well placed for MoMA, the Rockefeller Centre and Fifth Avenue shops, and an easy walk to Central Park. Expect to pay about $200 a night, but ask about deals and discounts
The alternative: W in Times Square is a hip midtown hotel, great for the theatre district. Or take your copy of The Collected Dorothy Parker and sit in the Algonquin Hotel (59 West 44th Street), home to the Algonquin Round Table most famously associated with the writer, though in later years she said she didn’t actually spend much time there as it was so expensive.
Eat
Butter, downtown on Lafayette St has a stylish arched interior that manages to be intimate and spacious at the same time – ask for a cosy banquette along the wall.
The alternative: It’s easy to eat on the go, pick up a breakfast ‘caw-fee’ and a doughnut from a street stall as you go; put together a posh picnic at upmarket deli Dean & Deluca or, for a classic New York experience, pick a diner at random and enjoy the staff repartee.
Note: You may want to read Anthony Bourdain’s behind-the-scenes account of the New York restaurant scene in Kitchen Confidential before venturing out to eat – you may never eat mussels again.
Drink
Enjoy the world-famous Bloody Marys and martinis at the posh King Cole Bar at the glamorous St Regis bar on 55th street, just off Fifth Avenue.
The alternative: The Ear Inn has been popular with its Soho locals since the early 1800s and the dark wood décor and retro feel has changed very little in the meantime.
Shop
Fifth Avenue for designer names, department stores, American favourites like Gap and, for European tastes, H&M. And, of course, Tiffany’s. Stand outside with takeaway coffee and a pastry – evening gloves optional.
The alternative: Greenwich Village is packed full of quirky boutiques but can be pricey.
See
The hottest shows on Broadway right now are – still – The Book of Mormon, Dear Evan Hansen and Hello Dolly!; queue up at the Times Square ticket booth to get on-the-day deals.
The alternative: The iconic Blue Man Group has shows running all over the world, see them at their original home in the Astor Place Theatre on Lafayette St. Combining multi-media theatrics, music, lighting, mime and comedy, it’s an amazing experience that should not be missed.
View
The Empire State building is the classic destination, once the tallest building in the world and the site of romantic meetings from Sleepless in Seattle to An Affair to Remember.
The alternative: ‘The Rock’ at the top of the Rockefeller Centre, close to Times Square, has uninterrupted views of the city and a great view of the Empire State! Back at ground level, skate on the famous ice rink in winter; take a tour of neighbouring NBC studios or Radio City Music Hall.
Art
The ‘big three’ are MoMA, the Guggenheim and The Met, with impressive international collections.
The alternative: Skip the European treasures and head for the Whitney Museum of American Art at 945 Madison Ave.
Two more to do
Crafty New York: Visit Purl Patchwork on Sullivan in Soho for gorgeous fabrics and sewing classes, and Purl next door for wool
Take the Sex and the City bus tour
What’s everyone in Manhattan talking about right now?
Bars: 10 Downing, Scarpetta, Monkey Bar
Hotels: Ace, Standard, Cooper Square
Shops: The entire Christopher St area, Dossier in Fort Greene, Partners and Spade in Noho (North of Houston – remember, House-ton!)
Don’t go without
The Luxe City Guide to New York, insider info on the best places to eat, drink, shop, spa, see and stay packed onto a slimline compact fold-out card; the ready-made half-day shopping shopping and activity itineraries will save you weeks of research.
And finally, if you’re nostalgic for home – though why you would be overnight I’m not sure – the New York outpost of Soho House is at 29 9th Ave
It’s believed that St Giles was founded around 1124 by King David and named in memory of a 7th century Greek hermit, the patron saint of – among other things – lepers. Only a few of the stones of the original medieval building remain and today the oldest part of the cathedral is believed to be the sanctuary at the crossing, dating from the early 1300s.
It’s played host to many famous characters over the years, including minister John Knox, one of the foremost proponents of the Reformation in Scotland, Jenny Geddes who may have been responsible for the start of the Civil War that overthrew the monarchy and the Knights of the Most Ancient and Most Noble of the Thistle, who have their own regal chapel in the cathedral. And John Knox is the reason dogs are welcomed in the cathedral, which is a very interesting story…
Have a look in St Giles at the 15th century Preston aisle, the former resting place of the arm bone of St Giles that now holds medieval monuments, grave stones and carvings; the stunning stained-glass window created in memory to the Marquis of Montrose, executed as a Royalist in 1650; and a wonderful set of memorials around the building to the great writers of Scotland.
For more information visit Stgilescathedral.org.uk
Edinburgh: cathedral city
It’s an exciting city, vibrant and buzzing with a great cultural scene, lively social life and centuries of fascinating history. The buildings are imposing and the views quite amazing from the hilly twists and turns of the old streets. And it’s on the sea, just a short bus or train ride from the city centre.
What to do: The Royal Mile is home to the cathedral, Edinburgh Castle, the Scottish Parliament, the house of John Knox and the beautiful Princes Street Gardens, all worth a visit; at the end of the ‘Mile’ the Palace of Holyroodhouse is the Royal Family’s official residence in Scotland and open to the public; the Edinburgh Festival, comprising the Festival Fringe, the International Festival, the Military Tattoo and the International Book Festival, runs throughout August and is world-famous but accommodation in the city is at a premium for the month.
Where to stay: The Scotsman Hotel, close to the main railway station, is housed in the former newspaper office and a plush retreat in the heart of the city.
Cathedrals of Britain: North of England and Scotland by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword books, £12.99, buy online here
Aberdeen Cathedral, more properly known as The Cathedral Church of St Machar, has played a part in the fight for Scottish independence in conflicts that raged throughout the Middle Ages. This conflict goes deep into the very foundation of the church itself. And has created one of the cathedral’s most controversial situations. Because St Machar’s lost its cathedral status during the Reformation – like so many other cathedrals around the UK. But, unlike them, St Machar’s never had its status restored. So, despite the name, today it’s not a cathedral at all.
St Machar was a 6th century Celtic saint, a follower of the Irish St Columba who is credited with spreading Christianity in Scotland and the north of England. Machar established a place of worship in Old Aberdeen around 580 and there’s good evidence that this 6th-century place of worship was on the site of today’s cathedral. In 1131, King David I of Scotland moved a bishopric – the district under a bishop’s control – from Mortlach to the cathedral’s current site in Aberdeen because of its links with St Machar’s church and by 1165 a cathedral in the Norman style had largely been completed on this site.
Its treasures include Bishop Dunbar’s heraldic ceiling, with its 48 shields of Scotland’s bishops and archbishops, Europe’s royal houses and the Kings of Scotland, which dates from 1520; the 12th century Sanctuary Cross, whose origins go back to the early day of the cathedral and Machar himself and the wooden Barbour Tryptich dedicated to the 14th century poet John Barbour who wrote the epic poem ‘The Brus’ and who was for 40 years Archdeacon of Aberdeen. You’ll find more treasures outside the cathedral, where some of the original walls of the crossing and transepts can still be seen, left behind when this part of the building fell down.
Aberdeen: cathedral city
Located in Aberdeenshire on the east coast of Scotland, this has from medieval times has been one of the richest and most fertile regions of the Highlands and also home to Aberdeen Angus cattle.
What to do: The King’s Museum has an interesting exhibition of 18th century artefacts from the university, housed in the Old Town House, which also has a visitors’ centre and tells the story of the local history. Aberdeen Art Gallery shows contemporary Scottish and English works, alongside historical collections such as the Pre-Raphaelites, housed behind a grand old façade. The 210-year-old Glen Garioch distillery is just a few miles outside the city and has been producing single malt since 1797 – you can visit the room where 40,000 tonnes of barley were once turned by hand.
Where to stay: For some old world glamour, the Aberdeen Malmaison hotel and spa is a beautiful granite building on the outskirts of the city and its brasserie is renowned for its steaks.
Cathedrals of Britain: North of England and Scotland by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword books, £12.99, buy online here