Notice: Function _load_textdomain_just_in_time was called incorrectly. Translation loading for the cornerstone domain was triggered too early. This is usually an indicator for some code in the plugin or theme running too early. Translations should be loaded at the init action or later. Please see Debugging in WordPress for more information. (This message was added in version 6.7.0.) in /home1/bernadette/public_html/wp-includes/functions.php on line 6131

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home1/bernadette/public_html/wp-includes/functions.php:6131) in /home1/bernadette/public_html/wp-includes/feed-rss2.php on line 8
Summer breaks | Bernadette Fallon https://bernadettefallon.com Travelling well: travel to inspire the mind Wed, 03 Feb 2021 15:45:09 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 Isle of Wight: where to go and what to do https://bernadettefallon.com/article/isle-of-wight-where-to-go-and-what-to-do/ Thu, 13 Aug 2020 16:34:00 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=792

It’s August and you haven’t booked to go away? No need! Opt for a staycation on the Isle of Wight instead – just a short trip on the ferry to this island off the south coast, you’ll feel you’re leaving the country without having to pack your passport. It’s the perfect destination for a short holiday, with great beaches, plenty of activities, interesting places to visit and a very good chance of fine weather. Or, if you’re close to the south coast, with crossing times of just 25 minutes on the brand-new Red Jet passenger ferry, it’s a day trip option as well.

The Isle of Wight is a beautiful spot. In 1963 half of the island was designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and 1974 its north west coast was recognised for the unspoilt natural beauty of its soft cliffs, woodlands, farmland and creeks and defined as the Hamstead Heritage Coast. It includes the National Trust land of Newtown National Nature Reserve and Forestry Commission woodland of Bouldnor Forest, and is a haven for wildlife, including the native red squirrel.

The opposite coast, with its rugged clay and sandstone cliffs was named as the Tennyson Heritage Coast. It includes the Needles chalk stacks and is a fossil rich coastline, well known for dinosaur footprints, chines and lighthouses.

shanklin beach isle of wight

Needless to say, this natural paradise is a big attraction for walkers and a coastal path winds its way around the island, accessed from Bouldnor near Yarmouth or Thorness near Cowes, with other footpaths from Newtown, Shalfleet and the surrounding areas leading across the fields and woodland to the coastline. Altogether there are 64 miles of coastal paths to rocky coves and dramatic clifftops and over 500 miles of footpaths on the island to suit both the gentle stroller and experienced hiker.

Isle of Wight: top things to do

1. Take a guided walk to discover local wildlife and landscapes or uncover the island’s dinosaur heritage on a fossil hunt. The island is often called ‘England in miniature’ and a walk will allow you to explore the very best of the English countryside, from sand dunes and coves to thatched villages and sailing towns. ‘Rambles by Bus’ have been developed by the Isle of Wight Ramblers and Southern Vectis to allow visitors to follow walks that start and end on a bus route.

2. Hire a bike once you land on the island – most ferry terminals are near a cycle route and the majority of routes are off-road, so suitable for all the family. There are over 200 miles of cycle tracks and off-road bridleways on the island and lots of cycle-friendly accommodation if you want to make this the focus of your visit. Some local businesses offer baggage transfers so you can cycle unimpeded from place to place.

osborne house isle of wight

3. Pay a visit to Queen Victoria’s former home, Osborne, with its own private beach. The monarch’s former home was owned privately and kept as a summer home and place of retreat for herself, Prince Albert and their family. Writing about it she said, “It is impossible to imagine a prettier spot”. Now owned by English Heritage, it is one of the island’s most popular tourist attractions, its grand rooms, including the family’s private apartments, still full of their possessions, including many of the gifts Prince Albert gave his wife. Outside the extensive grounds house a beautiful Victorian walled garden, the Swiss Cottage built for the royal children and woodland that runs down to a private beach. Admission is £15 for adults, £9 for children under 15, more information here.

4. See Carisbrooke Castle, where the deposed king Charles I was incarcerated before his beheading. The castle is over 1,000 years old and began life as an Anglo-Saxon fortress, built to provide refuge from the Vikings. As well as a prison, it has also been used as an Elizabethan artillery fortress and royal summer residence. Today, as well as its fascinating history, you will find donkeys working the 16th century treadwheel and an Edwardian-style Princess Beatrice Garden, designed by TV presenter and award-winning garden designer, Chris Beardshaw.
Adults £8.80, Children £5.20, more information here.

5. Visit the spectacularly sited clifftop fort and Victorian coastal defence, the Needles Old Battery for the best views of the iconic Needles, one of the island’s landmarks. You can explore its history through exhibitions, displays and memorabilia and take a trip into its underground tunnel for more spectacular views.
Adults £7.50, children £3.75, more information here.

6. Travel back in time on the island’s west coast, where you’ll find Stone Age burial tombs – long barrows – around Freshwater Bay and above the village of Mottistone. Barrows are also strung out along the tops of the downs at Headon Warren and Brook Down.

7. Go on a dinosaur hunt. Rapidly becoming known as Dinosaur Island, the cliffs and beaches around the coast are full of animal and plant fossils, with the oldest rocks formed back when dinosaurs walked the earth. The yellow, brown and grey rocks exposed in the bays of Compton, Brook and Brighstone contain fossilised tress and dinosaur bones and giant casts of dinosaur footprints in stone are a famous feature at Hanover Point.

shanklin beach with play area

8. Hang out on the beach – there are plenty to choose from. Most popular are Sandown beach, Whitecliff Bay, Shanklin (pictured above), Brightstone and Gurnard.

For more information on all of the attractions above, see Visit the Isle of Wight website

Stay
Haven Hall on the west coast, overlooking Shanklin beach, is one of the most stunningly-located hotels on the island, a haven of 5-star luxury and just recently opened. Read all about it here.

Eat
Thompson’s in Newport is run by the youngest chef ever to win a Michelin star, Robert Thompson, and offers classic cooking with a modern touch, using lots of the island’s superb local produce. The Waterfront at Totland Bay has amazing views and great food.
The Isle of Wight is a bit of a foodie paradise, don’t leave without buying some of the wonderful local produce, including its famous garlic. Yes, it even has a garlic festival.

Drink
Fisherman’s Cottage at the end of Shanklin beach has outside tables that are just a few feet away from the sea. It also does very good food.

Getting there

Red Funnel runs a regular passenger (travel time 25 minutes) and car (travel time 1 hour) ferry service to the island from Southampton (including a free shuttle bus from Southampton train station), see details and timetables here.
It’s a dog friendly service – read more here.
Red Funnel has also produced a Days Out guide, with suggested itineraries for day trips and four self-guided day trip tour packages including Queen Victoria’s Osborne, Carisbrooke Castle and Newport, Olde-World England, around Godshill and Shanklin, and Dinosaur Isle & the Isle of Wight zoo. Packages include travel to and from the island and cost £29.95 per person and there is also a cycling package for £28 per person, including bike hire.
You can also take the Wightlink ferry from Portsmouth and Lymington or Hovertravel from Southsea.

]]>
A taste of fine Burgundy https://bernadettefallon.com/article/abbaye-de-la-bussiere-burgundy-france/ Tue, 05 Nov 2019 19:12:04 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=1170

800 years ago, this place was a monastery. Monks climbed the stairs of this abbey, passed under the vaulted ceilings, enjoyed the sunlight through these huge stained-glass windows.

Abbaye de la Bussière hallway

But they didn’t walk on carpet on their way to eat in a Michelin-starred dining room. They didn’t rock in the huge wooden swing by the lake. Nor would they have crossed the hump-backed bridge to the tiny island with its trees and treehouse.

Back then there were no swings or treehouses and the lake was a sewage facility for the 12th century monastery. Now the lake is a home to ducks and a family of herons, and the abbey-turned-hotel has been sympathetically preserved by an English family to display its wonderful architecture to a whole new generation of worshipers.

Abbaye de la Bussière and lake

Only now we come to admire the beauty of the building, the gourmet food and the tranquil setting instead of God. But if you have any spiritual awareness at all, you’ll quickly find this beautiful place resonating with your soul.

There are 20 rooms in total at the Abbaye de la Bussière explains owner Clive Cummings when he picks us up at Dijon train station, a half hour drive from the abbey, including rooms in the main house as well as the various other buildings around the grounds, some of which have been converted into family suites.

There are two restaurants, again with soaring arches and magnificent architecture. The fine dining Michelin-starred restaurant is a grand affair with stone arches and chandeliers and offers both a tasting menu – matched with wines – and an a la carte, with choices including frogs’ legs, local freshwater zander and pigeon. But in fairness, the quality of the food is just as good in the hotel bistro, pictured below.

Abbaye de la Bussiere Bistrot

Our cosy double is nestled under the eaves with views of the gardens and lake. As befits its luxurious setting, it’s kitted out with a Nespresso machine and a welcome bottle of home-made peach liqueur – there’s a jacuzzi bath in the bathroom, fluffy robes and slippers in the wardrobe.

Abbaye de la Bussiere bedroom

Read on…

]]>
A tribute to the people of Sri Lanka https://bernadettefallon.com/article/sri-lanka-a-natural-paradise/ Sat, 16 Feb 2019 20:38:33 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=1066

The heart-breaking job of burying the dead was still underway in Sri Lanka this week when three cornered suicide bombers blew themselves up on Friday night during a security forces operation, killing 15 others, including six children.

Another devastating blow for the people of Sri Lanka who last week, on Easter Sunday, witnessed their country racked apart when suicide bombers took up position in three churches and three luxury hotels and detonated their terrible packages. A statement from Isis said that churches and hotels with foreign guests from “crusader” countries had been struck.

I was one of those “crusading guests” who visited Sri Lanka last September, staying at the Shangri-La hotel in Colombo, having breakfast in that same dining room that was last week ripped apart by two bomb blasts that killed entire families.

shangri la breakfast

I chatted to the friendly staff, met many kind people who welcomed us to the hotel and Sri Lanka, delighted that after many years of civil war in their country, tourists were now returning and boosting the economy, providing jobs and income. (Twenty-six years of fighting between the government and the Tamils ended just ten years ago).

The driver who picked us up at the airport at 4.30am stopped his car as he drove through the dark city so he could buy us two fresh coconuts from the early morning stall-holders who were just setting up by the river. We drank coconut milk as the sun came up and the driver told us how happy he was we had come to his country. (He also told us how delighted he was to see my friend Rob’s dreadlocks – “the first time I have ever seen hair like this,” he said)

Later that day we zipped through the city streets in a tuk-tuk – presented with more fresh coconuts by our driver Rex as we climbed abroad.

We wound our way through the traffic as people waved from neighbouring scooters, children laughing as we overtook them, waving furiously with wide smiles as they overtook us.

We met groups of men in the Spice Market who wanted to come and shake our hands and have their photo taken by Rob. With wide smiles and thumbs up they posed madly. And later, one man who had stayed outside of the group shyly approached Rob to ask if he could have his picture taken too.

men on streets of colombo

We learned the history of Sri Lanka’s proud past in the tea shops, ate lunch with locals in the market – the men sitting with us at the communal tables gesturing at the staff to bring me some cutlery, so that I wouldn’t have to look like a foreign idiot eating with my hand as they did.

We went down streets that have only been opened recently to the public following the years of fighting, the bullet holes still clearly visible in the walls. And everywhere we went we found friendliness and kindness – Rob is still in touch with many of the people we met on our visit.

Yesterday the British government issued a statement advising against travel to Sri Lanka, except in essential cases. The country will suffer loss of income from foreign travellers and no doubt many of the people we met will lose their jobs. Another heart-break.

But while the bombers have wrecked great destruction and tremendous horror on the country, they can’t take away its spirit – the spirit of kindness, friendliness and welcome. The welcome that the suicide bomber who entered the Protestant Zion church in Batticaloa received from the pastor’s teenage son – killed moments later – is unutterably poignant and heart-rending.

But kindness and love will win out over hatred and hostility. I believe this. I believe that the spirit of the Sri Lankan people will win. And people will return to the country again, to show solidarity and to show those that attempt to spread fear and hate, that you will not succeed.

Christian churches and western style hotels were targeted in the hate attacks. Only just over 7% of the country is Christian. 9% is Muslim, 12% is Hindu and the overwhelming majority, 70% of the 20m Sri Lankan population, are Theravada Buddhists. There are 6,000 Buddhist monasteries in Sri Lanka, over 15,000 Buddhist monks and thousands and thousands of temples.

Theravada is the most ancient form of Buddhism, a practice that teaches its followers to develop the qualities of awareness, kindness and wisdom to reach a state of complete freedom from any spiritual, emotional or mental restrictions or limitations. It teaches that nothing is fixed or permanent, actions have consequences and change is possible. And so I believe that hate doesn’t have to be permanent, that change is possible.

On our last day in Sri Lanka, having travelled to the south of the country, we visited one of the temples – Mulkirigala Rock Temple, where we climbed over 500 steps to visit seven caves on five terraces, with their ornate wall paintings and huge reclining Buddhas. We met a monk called Siriniwasa, who was wary at first when Rob, having asked our guide if it would be appropriate to ask for a photo, approached him.

And after posing for a few photos with his young Buddhist apprentices, he eventually whipped out a mobile phone from under his robes and asked if Rob could take a photo of them all with it. I was eventually persuaded into the group to take photos of Rob with the monks, all of them beaming furiously. By now fast friends, Siriniwasa asked Rob to help them plant a tree and he did, there at the top of Mulkirigala, everybody delighted with their new found friendship.

rob and buddhist monk in temple

I’ll go back to Sri Lanka again. I’ll go back to see the people we met, to see how they’re coping and to see if Rob’s tree has grown. I very much look forward to it.

******

I first wrote about my trip to Sri Lanka for The Scotsman newspaper and it was published in December 2018 using Rob’s photos

There’s an elephant standing a few metres away from our jeep in Sri Lanka’s Udawalawe National Park, engaged in a very elaborate breakfast routine. Kicking the grass to loosen it, he tugs it free, then rolls it painstakingly with his trunk, constantly repeating the process over and over – kicking, tugging, rolling – an awful lot of hard work to make each small mouthful.

So far this morning we’ve seen elephants, spotted deer and water buffalo as well as a myriad of birds. But the most magical moment of all was on our way to the elephant transit centre, where abandoned baby elephants are cared for before being introduced back into the wild, when a – clearly selfie-conscious – large male elephant came to the edge of the road for a photo.

Standing the other side of a thin wire fence where a few other jeeps had also pulled up, he moved over to each new arrival, waiting patiently until they’d had their photo taken with him before moving on to the next group. “This is such kindness,” said our guide Palinder in wonder as we snapped away furiously.

Read the rest of the article published in The Scotsman…

All photos by Rob Wilson Jnr, Fluid4Sight

]]>
Nevis, West Indies: welcome to paradise https://bernadettefallon.com/article/nevis-west-indies-caribbean-island/ Sat, 16 Feb 2019 20:23:45 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=1060

The island of Nevis in the West Indies doesn’t have an airport big enough to land international aircraft. Instead we land at St Kitt’s, drive for 20-minutes to Reggae Beach and board a water taxi for a 6-minute speedboat ride across the bay, arriving James Bond style on its white sandy shores.

Nevis is one of the smaller and lesser known Caribbean islands, despite the fact it was ruled by the British for over 200 years and was for a time the home of Admiral Nelson. Which means the Queen’s head is still on the local banknotes and English is the first language. Your bank card will work in the cashpoints and you don’t need a visa to enter.

The island measures just 36 square miles and has a population of 11,000, with the twin islands of Nevis and St Kitts making up the smallest nation in the western hemisphere. “Two islands, one paradise,” says the tourist board slogan.

Nevis offers the rare luxury of “exclusivity”, this unspoiled gem is how the Caribbean used to be, says its Minister for Tourism, Mark Brantley; “there are no high rises or fast food chains, no all-inclusive package holidays or mass tourism”. Neither are there cruise ships, traffic lights or bustling crowds, here you’ll find more monkeys than people, a place where sheep and goats graze freely at the sides of the roads.

Princess Diana used it as a refuge, holidaying here with the young princes and Harry returned on a royal tour of duty in 2016. It’s a favourite spot with Oprah Winfrey and Beyonce, Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones, John Travolta and Meryl Streep.

Read on the rest of the story in a feature recently published in The Scotsman travel magazine…

]]>
10 things to do on Cape Cod https://bernadettefallon.com/article/things-to-do-cape-cod/ Tue, 11 Sep 2018 06:21:46 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=965

To visit Massachusetts and not spend time on Cape Cod would be a big mistake. While Boston is that most fantastic of urban spaces, a city with access to beaches where skyscrapers and scenic coasts merge, the beaches of Cape Cod are little nature paradises. And with regular ferries to both Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, it’s the perfect launch pad for some island exploration.

Take the train
It’s easy to get there on public transport, with daily buses from Boston South Station to Hyannis ($19 single). But if you are visiting during the summer months, from May to September, take the Cape Flyer train, which runs from Friday to Sunday ($22 single). It’s a rather glorious journey through scenic countryside and on to the ocean, crossing the stunning Buzzards Bay vertical lift bridge to the Cape, the second longest bridge of its kind in the world. First established in 1848, the railroad service discontinued year-round operation in the 1950s and the current service is a contemporary one that has been running since 1999.

Hit the beach

Cape Cod beach
The best areas for beaches are Chatham and Truro, though with over 500 miles of coast, you’re never far from a stunning stretch of sand on the Cape. Local resident (and President of United States) John F Kennedy preserved the Cape Cod National Seashore, from Chatham to Provincetown, in 1961 for “the inspiration and enjoyment of people all over the United States”.

Group at KENNEDY COMPOUND HYANNISPORT
The Kennedy’s have had a summer home on the Cape since the 1920s and you can get a clear look at the family compound from Eugenia Fortes beach at Hyannisport, close to the poignant Kennedy Memorial. Other best beaches on the Cape include Sandy Neck at Sandwich, Old Silver Beach at Falmouth and Race Point at Provincetown. Divided into Upper, Mid, Lower and Outer Cape, Upper has calm tidal bay beaches, while Outer boasts the wild open Atlantic.

Visit the JFK Museum in Hyannis

JFK Museum Hyannis
A more intimate telling of the Kennedy ‘Camelot’ legend through rare and personal family photos and papers, the JFK Museum in Hyannis may be a lot smaller than the super-sized John F Kennedy Library in Boston but it is a treasure trove of exhibits. Featuring intimate behind-the-scenes images of the 35th President of the United States and his family, taken by their personal photographer Jacques Lowe, the museum charts a journey through the life of JFK, with a special focus on Cape Cod, the place he called home. A parallel exhibition looks at the life and work of Robert F Kennedy in the run up to his 1968 Presidential campaign.

Meet the locals
The stories of US immigrants and colonists are widely told. But we don’t hear so much about the native people their arrival often displaced. Down the road from the JFK Museum in Hyannis on Cape Cod, meet Iyannagh, sitting contemplatively on the village green. This statue to the leader of the Mattachiest tribe pays tribute to the American Indian ‘sachem’ – chief – who helped the Mayflower Pilgrims when they landed on Cape Cod before making their way to settle in Plymouth. He is the man responsible for the name Hyannis, and also part of the reason Americans sit down to eat Thanksgiving turkey every year.

Sail to Nantucket

Nantucket main street
If you spend the night in Hyannis, you’re perfectly placed to sail from Hyannis Port to the beautiful island of Nantucket in the morning, making it an easy day trip from the Cape ($25 round-trip).
The island, measuring just 14 miles by 3.5, has over 800 pre-Civil War homes, more than anywhere else in the USA. It also boasts 82 miles of coastline, 10 stunning beaches and hosts celebrity holiday homers like Tommy Hilfiger, Ben Stiller and Google’s Eric Schmidt. Bills Clinton and Gates are frequent visitors. After you’ve explored the quaint Main St with beautiful historic stone buildings and scenic marinas, it’s easy to travel around the rest of the island by hire bike or on the frequent buses.

Meet whales and artists
Nantucket’s Whaling Museum (admission $20) is just a short walk from the harbour where the Cape Cod ferry comes in and a good first port of call to get the history of this affluent island. It became famous as the whaling capital of the world in the 17th and 18th centuries, inspiring the novel Moby Dick by Herman Melville, and the museum tells the fascinating – and rather gory – story of this industry.
THE CHANTICLEER S'CONSET NANTUCKET
Once the whaling industry collapsed at the end of the 19th century, artists, attracted by the stunning natural landscapes and the light, began to arrive on Nantucket. Today a thriving artists’ colony still exists on the island. This is mainly centered around Sconset, with its quaint flower-bedecked cottages and long beaches, an easy 20-minute bus ride from the Main Street.

See the Gingerbread Houses on Martha’s Vineyard

Gingerbread Houses Marthas Vineyard
Martha’s Vineyard makes another great day trip from Cape Cod and is an even quicker journey than Nantucket. Take a tip from the insiders and travel from the Cape on the Island Queen ferry from Falmouth, an easy half-hour journey ($22 round trip).
Less ‘preserved’ than Nantucket, it feels all the more real for it but none the less interesting historically. Its beautiful Gingerbread Houses are an easy walk from Oak Bluffs harbour, brightly coloured 19th century cottages with gingerbread trim that grew up around the Methodist tabernacle in Wesleyan Grove. Part of the Methodist summer campground established after the American Civil War, the houses replaced temporary tents as the congregation became more permanent and the era is now a National Historic Landmark.

Hang out in Falmouth
The coastal town of Falmouth is a great place to base yourself on a trip to the Cape, with its pretty beaches, pleasant shopping streets and the historic 19th century Highfield Hall estate with its contemporary art exhibitions. Browse independent boutiques for artworks, photography, contemporary homewares and very reasonably priced beachwear and fashion – and of course you’re never very far from a Cape Cod emblazoned sweatshirt! If you hire a car, the journey will take about an hour from Hyannis, travelling on the bus will add another 20 minutes or so onto your travel time.

Stay in a sea captain’s home
ShoreWay Acres Falmouth Cape Cod
Stay half way between the beach and Falmouth Main Street at Shoreway Acres Inn, a historic house that was once the home of a sea captain, since extended into a comfortable inn. It’s set in pretty gardens, with lots of al-fresco chill-out areas, and indoor and outdoor pools. Family rooms from $119, Shorewayacresinn.com

Enjoy family fun at a water park
The Cape Codder Resort & Spa on the outskirts of Hyannis is ideal for families with its big water-park, several restaurants and bars and nightly live entertainment. Family suites from $359, Capecodderresort.com

Visiting Massachusetts? See 18 top things to do in Boston

More on the US: Why we should all visit America right now

Read my travel feature on Boston and Cape Cod published in The Scotsman

Images: Mike Galvin, William DeSousa, Bernadette Fallon

]]>
English island escape: a haven on the Isle of Wight https://bernadettefallon.com/article/haven-hall-isle-of-wight/ Sun, 11 Mar 2018 11:51:45 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=786

‘The Isle of Wight is how England was 40 years ago.’

So says David Barratt, my host on the island and owner of the very beautiful Haven Hall.

Forty years ago. 1978. Labour was in power, James Callaghan was Prime Minister and people stopped hunting the otter as it became a protected species. May Day became a bank holiday, the world’s first IVF baby was born in Oldham and bakers and the BBC went on strike. The Bee Gees’ ‘Night Fever’ was number one for two months and Annie Hall won the Oscar for Best Film.

But I can’t really pass judgement on how England was back then. I was a 9-year-old in the west of Ireland, just discovering Top of the Pops but already an aficionado of Blue Peter and – previously – Play School. So I had plenty of English cultural references, but from the far side of the Irish sea.

But I can tell you how the Isle of Wight is right now.

Good. In a word.

Or in two words. Very good.

If by ‘England 40 years ago, he means a slower, steadier, calmer pace of life, then yes, that’s spot on. It’s a place where people chat to you on buses and the buses take you on scenic drives through beautiful countryside. It’s not the most efficient way to travel – my half-an-hour drive from West Cowes, where the Southampton passenger ferry docks, to Haven Hall at Shanklin beach takes almost two hours on two buses.

But if you’re happy to sit back and take in the scenery, the picture-perfect villages with thatched cottages and trailing roses, the green fields stretching away to golden beaches, and you’ve got a leisurely day to spend, then why would you rush through it? This is slow living at its best.

But you can do it faster. The total journey time from London Waterloo to Haven Hall is two and a half hours if you take the fast ferry to the island and on to Shanklin by train. A new Red Funnel passenger ferry has just been launched, which is lighter, more efficient, more manoeuvrable, quieter and smoother. It takes just 25 minutes to speed across from Southampton and if you arrive by train, a free shuttle bus will take you to the ferry terminal with ferries running every half hour. If you’re driving, the car ferry crosses every hour from Southampton to East Cowes.

isle of wight ferry

If you’re coming from London or the South East, it’s a quick and easy journey – and, at the end of it, here you are on the edge of an island with cliffside walks to the beach. Two acres of beautifully planted landscaped gardens overlook the sea and local resident Alan Titchmarsh voted this the Best Commercial Garden 2017 for Isle of Wight in Bloom. The Hall’s other celebrity fans include actor Colin Firth, who has visited with his family twice, footballer Peter Crouch and his wife Abi Clancy and comedian Jimmy Carr.

Haven Hall isle of wight garden view

There’s an outdoor swimming pool that’s solar heated to a comfortable 26 degrees on the day I visit, grass tennis courts, sunloungers on the lawns and a pergola that is more in the nature of a beautiful piece of sculpture, set in the gardens looking out to sea. And there’s a cliffside walk to the beach where you can eat at Fisherman’s Cottage, sitting at an outside table, just a few feet away from the waves lapping on the sand.

The hall has 14 bespoke bedrooms with sea views, which includes seven apartments, all individually designed by David’s wife Arielle. The couple bought the property, a run-down Edwardian mansion built as a private home in 1908 and run as a hotel since the 1950s, because of its location and their dream of what it could become. But not without a considerable amount of work. Its last incarnation, a hostel for school children in the 1970s, saw its grand spaces converted into a warren of tiny rooms stacked with bunk beds.

“The contractor said year and a half to complete it and we were reasonably happy with that and the budget that was allocated for it,” said David. The project went on to take four and a half years to finish at almost four times the original budget.

“You take the wallpaper down and the plaster falls off the wall, you discover the wiring is terrible and if you’re re-doing the wiring, you might as well re-do the plumbing. If you’re doing that, then why not add air conditioning, and soon you find you’re taking most of the roof off as well,” he explains ruefully. “I fired the first two project managers and ended up doing the job myself. At any one time we had up to 55 workmen on the site, 3 people working full time renovating period furniture and 11 shipping containers storing everything we were buying at auction to kit it all out.”

And while they might not have had to move heaven to achieve their dreams, they certainly had to move earth – several hundred tonnes of it, completely remodelling the grounds to make the most of the stunning location and its spectacular view.

Sunrise pergola haven hall isle of wight

The couple lived on the property through the renovations, “either in a sea of mud or a cloud of dust,” says David. But he is no stranger to complex building projects.

Originally from Newcastle, he spent all of his working life in California and Hawaii, running his own property companies. He left England, he explains, because he didn’t want to live in the shadow of his father, the man who built Britain’s largest building company, Barratt Homes. Sir Lawrie Barratt was “a hard act to follow,” says David.

“He lived through the war, built his own billion-pound company and was knighted by the Queen. He valued working for yourself, so he didn’t want me to work for him or anybody else. He gave me enough money to set myself up so I went to the US and made all of my own mistakes.”

But he still missed the UK. “I enjoyed the US but there were parts of England I was always yearning for, like Radio 4 and intelligence.”

Moving back to the UK when his father was ill, he ended up divorcing when his daughter went to university and meeting Arielle while he was living in London. An art graduate from Yale and the Slade School – whose keen eye for design is evident throughout Haven Hall – the pair wanted to find a home together, looking at various parts of the south of England and then – as he describes it – “discovering” the Isle of Wight.

Haven Hall isle of wight sky

Describing this period as the next stage of their lives, he explains that they had to find what they wanted to do. “I didn’t want to just be someone on the golf course who used to do something. Both of us are do-ers, we’re both creative and we love meeting new people.”

Now he’s combined his passions. An island haven that is home, where he can entertain people from all over the world. They’ve been coming since the start of the year when the hotel opened its doors – from international worlds of culture, politics, business and entertainment; CEOs, high court judges and Colin Firth. And in this picture-perfect setting perched high over the ocean, no doubt it will continue.

For more information and to book visit www.havenhall.uk, phone 07914 796 494 or email info@havenhall.co.uk

Where to go and what to do on the Isle of Wight – see our top recommendations here

]]>