An earlier cathedral was destroyed by fire in 1067, shortly after the Norman Conquest and rebuilding began under the first Norman archbishop, Lanfranc, whose elaborate plans goaded the archbishop of York into a frenzy of building. Lanfranc had claimed primacy for his cathedral over York. York wasn’t having it and built its own cathedral, York Minster, on a scale to rival Canterbury. Read more about York Minster here.
Treasures to see on your visit
For such a big story, it’s surprising that today only a small altar marks the site of Thomas Becket’s murder in the cathedral. It was erected after the visit of Pope John Paul II to the cathedral. He commented that he had visited memorials to St Thomas Becket all over the world, but here in his own cathedral there was nothing to remember him by.
Becket’s body was taken to the crypt after his murder, today in that crypt you’ll find an evocative sculpture by the artist Antony Gormley, most famous for his Angel of the North artwork. Made from old iron nails taken from the repaired roof of the cathedral, it outlines the shape of a floating body and is suspended above the site of the first tomb of the archbishop.
Check out the medieval wall art in St Gabriel’s chapel – left intact throughout the Reformation as the chapel was walled up; the Great South Window, featuring some of the oldest stained glass in the world, dating from 1175, and considered to be one of the most famous works of English medieval painting; and the ship’s bell from HMS Canterbury, which is rang every day at 11am.
The Canterbury monks’ medieval priory is now the cathedral chapter house, with its own separate entrance through the cloisters outside. Monks often worked on transcribing manuscripts in the cloisters, where the light was better for doing such delicately detailed work. The priory dates from the Norman period with later Gothic additions. The timber ceiling is a rare example of a surviving 600-year-old design – most were destroyed by fire. The glass in the windows is Victorian, though the masonry surrounding them is medieval.
Important tombs include the grave of King Henry IV and the tomb of the Black Prince, Edward of Woodstock, the oldest son of Edward III, who died before he could inherit the throne.
Canterbury: cathedral city
Canterbury is surely one of the most atmospheric and attractive cities in England, with its medieval winding streets, river location and ancient city walls. It has been one of the country’s biggest attractions for centuries, from the pilgrims who came to pay homage to the shrine of Thomas Becket in the cathedral to the countless numbers of tourists who flock there every year.
Where to stay: Take up residence in the cathedral grounds – Canterbury Cathedral Lodge is a comfortable modern hotel and conference centre that offers you the chance to wake up to stunning cathedral views. Not only that, you get free admission to the cathedral and can go in and out as many times as you like.
What to do: The Canterbury Heritage Museum showcases everything from the city’s Roman history to the assassination of Thomas Becket, and the museum also houses the Rupert Bear Museum. Mary Tourtel, who created Rupert, was a Canterbury local.
For more history and a deeper look into Canterbury’s Roman past, there’s the Roman Museum or you can get cultural at the Beaney House of Art & Knowledge, with its museum and art gallery. The Eastbridge Hospital, set up for pilgrims, soldiers and the elderly in 1180, is also well worth a visit for its Romanesque undercroft, chapel and 16th century almshouses, all sitting across Britain’s most ancient road bridge, which is over 800 years old.
Nearby, St Martin’s Church is the oldest parish church in England in continuous use and you can also visit the ruins of Augustine’s Abbey, which is part of Canterbury’s World Heritage Site and dates from 597. A small museum on the site tells the story of the re-establishment of Christianity in all of England from here.
Cathedrals of Britain: London and the South East by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword and on sale for £12.99
]]>Known as the ‘Ship of the Fens’, Ely Cathedral rises majestically from the surrounding landscape. Once it stood on an island, surrounded on all sides by water, but the draining of the Fens marshland several centuries ago reunited the land around the cathedral with the rest of the countryside. It still retains some of that other-worldly allure however and today rises magically from the early morning mists. The first church on this site was founded by a woman, Ethelreda, a 7th century Anglo-Saxon princess, although buiding on the present cathedral didn’t start until 1081.
Lincoln
On top of one of the steepest hills in Britain, Lincoln cathedral can be seen from most parts of the county and was described by the Victorian critic John Ruskin as ‘the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles’. For a time in the Middle Ages, it was the tallest building in the world and is one of the few English cathedrals standing on the rock it is built from. Founded in 1072 by William the Conqueror’s travelling companion and supporter, the Benedictine monk Remigius, today its great west front is all that remains of the original Norman building.
Norwich
Built by the Normans soon after their victory at Hastings in 1066, Norwich Cathedral and nearby Norwich Castle were clear demonstrations of the invaders’ power and influence in what was then England’s second biggest city. As much a political statement as a religious one, the cathedral’s narrow nave with its soaring height and dramatic vaulting was deliberately sized to create the impression of power and grandeur. Its foundation stone was laid at the east end of the building in 1096.
Lichfield
Founded in the 8th century and filled with delicate angels, Lichfield Cathedral has come close to destruction several times over the centuries. The three spires of the cathedral are known locally as ‘the ladies of the vale’ and can be seen from all directions – but by the time they were completed there had already been a cathedral on the site for 600 years. The first church was built in 700, then demolished and rebuilt by the Normans in the 11 century, while today’s cathedral dates mainly from the 1400s.
Peterborough
While considerably less revered than its famous neighbours in Ely, Norwich and Lincoln, Peterborough cathedral has great historical significance and holds many treasures. It is one of the finest Norman buildings in the country and one of the few medieval cathedrals whose core structure remains essentially the same as it was on completion. Its 13th century wooden ceiling is the only one of its type in the UK and one of only four from this period surviving in all of Europe. It’s the final resting place for one of the nation’s most famous queens and maybe just have inspired part of Shakespeare’s Hamlet.
St Edmundsbury
A modestly sized and recently conferred cathedral, St Edmundsbury received its status in 1914 when the former parish church of St James became the cathedral for the newly created diocese of St Edmundsbury and Ipswich. But it has a huge and unique heritage, sharing its site with a spectacular ruined abbey laid out over several acres that marks it as a place of religious worship for over 1,000 years. And its other unique aspect is a more contemporary one. It boasts the country’s newest cathedral tower, a mere infant in the grand scheme of cathedral histories, completed in 2005.
Oxford
England’s smallest cathedral, Christ Church Oxford survives today due to a series of fortunate coincidences. One of the oldest buildings in Oxford, it dates from the 12th century and as well as a cathedral, it’s the chapel for Christ Church College, one of the largest and wealthiest colleges in the university. It has strong links with several monarchs and famous literary figures and, unusually, its patron saint, Frideswide, is a woman. But it hasn’t been without controversy, particularly in more recent times.
Cathedrals of Britain: East and Central by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword books, £12.99, buy online here
Read more
Around the UK in 30 cathedrals
Cathedrals of Britain: London and the South East – Canterbury, St Paul’s, Westminster Abbey, Southwark, Westminster Cathedral, Rochester, Chichester
Cathedrals of Britain: West, South West and Wales – Winchester, Salisbury, Wells, Gloucester, Exeter, St Davids, St Asaph’s
Cathedrals of Britain: North of England and Scotland – York, Durham, Ripon, Wakefield, Sheffield, Bradfield, Edinburgh, Aberdeen
Image credit: Lichfield Cathedral, Bernadette Fallon
]]>The Old Deanery, Ripon
Located across the road from Ripon Cathedral, with fine views of its soaring façade, this beautiful stone building is the former home of the cathedral deans. Dating back to 1625 and blessed with character and period detail, it still has its impressive original oak staircase and is full of individual quirks, like the gently sloping floorboards and thick-walled window seats. There are just eleven rooms altogether, each one totally individual. Live the life of a cathedral dean for a day. (Theolddeanery.co.uk; from £100)
Grays Court, York
Just a short cobbled-street’s walk from York Minister, this wonderful hotel was the first official residence for the treasurers of the minster, commissioned by the first Norman Archbishop of York, Ealdred. With part of it dating back to 1080, it’s possibly the oldest continuously occupied house in the UK and has the only private access to York’s city walls, which surround the edge of its lovely gardens. Inside it’s all luxury boutique hotel and beautiful design, just what you’d expect from a building that was owned by royalty when the treasurers moved out in the 16th century. It was given as a gift by King Edward VI to the Duke of Somerset and has been voted Visit York Hotel of the Year for the last three years. (Grayscourtyork.com; from £200)
Littlecote House, Berkshire
Famously associated with royalty and political intrigue, it was here that Henry VIII wooed Jane Seymour, in the house that her grandmother lived in. A 16th century Tudor manor, it has also hosted the likes of Elizabeth I, James I, Charles II and William of Orange. The D-Day landings were planned within these very walls, which also hide a secret passage behind the library bookcases. There’s a Roman villa in the grounds, which also offer a putting green, tennis and bowling courts. And, like any self-respecting 16th century building, several rooms are said to be haunted with the ghosts of former residents. You can even bring some history home with you; nearby Hungerford is famous for its antique shops. (Warnerleisurehotels.co.uk)
Tulloch Castle, Dingwall Ross-Shire
Wake up in a four-poster bed in a 12th century highland castle. Overlooking Cromarty Firth and the Black Isle, close to the ancient town of Dingwall, the former home of the Bains and Davidsons has been beautifully restored as a 22-bedroom hotel. Wander through the 250-year-old panelled Great Hall, admire original period fireplaces and ceilings, eat in The Turrets Restaurant and after you’ve finished being Laird of the Castle, explore the nearby Cairngorms National Park. There’s easy access to Inverness and the coast is just a six-minute drive away. (Part of the Bespoke Hotel Group, Bespokehotels.com/tullochcastlehotel; from £127)
Billesley Manor, Stratford upon Avon
The manor house of Billesley can be traced back to 705AD and was listed in the Domesday Book of 1086. It’s said that William Shakespeare married Anne Hathaway in the 8th century church in the grounds in 1582, and that his granddaughter also was married here. The charming hotel is a warren of twisting corridors and winding staircases, there’s a priest hole, grand stone fireplaces and an imposing Great Hall which hosts the morning breakfast buffet, a drawing room to take morning coffee and a library that Shakespeare purportedly visited. After its 17th-century heyday, the manor fell into disrepair, was refurbished in the early 20th century and has been a hotel for the last 50 years. (Billesleymanor.com)
Stonefield Castle, Mull of Kintyre
The 19th-century baronial home of the Campbell family (pictured top of the page) is set in 60 acres of woodland gardens and boasts a famous collection of Himalayan rhododendrons. From the wall-mounted stag’s head in the entrance hallway, enjoy one finely proportioned room after another, from drawing room to library and bar, into a long lounge with crackling open fire. Deep window seats look out to front and back gardens leading down to the broad expanse of Loch Fyne. It’s just two miles from the idyllic fishing village of Tarbert, one of the most attractive villages on the Mull of Kintyre peninsula. (Part of the Bespoke Hotel Group, Bespokehotels.com/stonefieldcastle; from £130)
The Midland Hotel, Bradford
Love the glamour of the old railways, with their puffing steam trains and waving white hankies on the platform? You’ll love The Midland Hotel in Bradford, a throw-back to the heyday of railway hotels and dating from 1885. It still has many of its attractive Victorian features, including grand foyer, glittering chandeliers and old-world appeal – and obviously it’s conveniently placed for transport, right beside the train station. It’s hosted the great and the good over the years, among them Laurel and Hardy, The Beatles and George Formby. It also attracted quite a lot of publicity when the Shakespearean actor Sir Henry Irving died on the main staircase, following a performance at the nearby Theatre Royal. He was attended to by his manager, no less famous a personage, Bram Stoker, the author of Dracula. (Peelhotels.co.uk/Midland-Hotel; from £70)
Oatlands Park, Surrey
Overlooking Weybridge’s Broadwater Lake, this was once the site of Henry VIII’s grand Tudor palace which he had redesigned for Anne of Cleeves – Elizabeth I, James I and Charles I also spent time here. Rebuilt as a Gothic mansion in the 18th century, it has been a hotel since 1856, and has welcomed several notable guests over the years including the poet Edward Lear and writer Emile Zola. On 10 acres of gardens and wooded parkland, the hotel has 144 rooms and still sits close to royalty – Windsor Castle is just down the road. (Oatlands-Park-Hotel; from £72)
Buxton Crescent, Peak District
The 5th Duke of Devonshire’s fashionable 18th century Georgian crescent is home to the newest ‘old’ hotel on our list, opening later this year for the first time. The 81-room, five-star hotel, with renovated Assembly Rooms and rooftop pool, has a thermal spa built on the site of the original Roman Baths, situated over the main mineral water spring. A medieval place of pilgrimage and fashionable spa town in the 1700s, Buxton has one of only two sets of warm springs developed by the Romans in the UK – the other is at Bath. (Buxtoncrescent.com; from £155)
Mandarin Oriental, London
Once the 19th century Hyde Park Court and Club, these days the 138 former bachelor flats, (along with the bachelors’ drawing, dining, billiard and smoking rooms) have been transformed into a very swish five-star hotel. Bette Davis, Cary Grant, Elizabeth Taylor and Gandhi have all stayed here, royalty has its own entrance opposite Hyde Park and Queen Elizabeth and Princess Margaret had dance lessons here as young girls. The Sultan of Zanzibar brought 12 goats to stay with him on his visit in 1929 and Rudolph Valentino stopped traffic when he stepped out on to the balcony to wave to several thousand screaming women on the footpath outside. Winston Churchill took refuge here during the Second World War and soldiers on leave from the trenches in World War 1 were given beds in ballroom if they had nowhere else to go. (MandarinOriental.com/London; from £740)
A version of this article was published in The Scotsman in summer 2020
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]]>There’s a llama nuzzling my chin. Her name is Truffle, she’s just turned 16-months-old and I’m about to take her for a walk.
I first became aware of the phenomenon of llama treks last year, over in Ireland watching a travel programme about a trip to a B&B in the countryside. Where they had llamas. And people took these llamas for a walk and it was calming, and it was restful, and it looked wonderful – a new form of mindfulness (being in the moment with a llama) and a more interesting way of meditating (thinking about a llama while walking). I googled llama treks and found a few places around Ireland that offered them. I read up on them all, then returned to London and did nothing more about it.
But the llama universe was clearly looking out for me. Because just six weeks later I had an invite from the Merry Harriers Inn in Surrey – not too far from where I live – for an overnight visit. And they had llamas…
I meet all ten of the llamas before we set off on the trek. Mungo is coming with us – he’s a few years older than Truffle and he’ll be walking with Fi – she’s a human (who says she has the best job in the world, leading llama treks year-round, weather permitting). I also meet Lorenzo, the baby of the family, just 8-months-old and too young yet for treks.
Llamas are friendly creatures, curious and loving and beautiful to look at. They are the stuff of viral videos. And they smile. Kittens – so over!
The only thing is, because they have three stomachs, they really like to eat a lot, spend 16 hours a day feeding – and don’t intend to stop just because they’re walking. So, I spend a substantial amount of the time trying to coax Truffle out of the hedges and away from foliage as we walk. With my inordinate charm? No, with a box of carrots, literally dangling a carrot in front of her to move her along. It’s quite a treat having her snuffle them out of my open palm though. Llamas, it turns out, also have ridiculously soft faces.
Treks take a couple of hours through the fields and countryside paths behind the Merrier Harriers inn. Or you can make a real trip of it and take a picnic (the llamas will carry the picnic basket and you can even have champagne).
When I’m not hanging out with llamas, I’m chilling in my shepherd’s hut or hobnobbing with the locals in the bar. There are five luxury huts set up in a field across the road from the inn and if this is a shepherd’s life, sign me up for a flock and crook now.
The inn also has accommodation in rooms over the pub or in pretty garden huts out the back (with views of the llamas). The inn itself is a 16the century pub – watercolours of it hang in Tate Britain – and serves food all day, with much of the produce sourced locally (some of it from their own garden).
The nearest station is Milford and trains run every hour from Clapham Junction, journey time is 40 minutes and then it’s a 10-minute taxi ride to the inn. If you’re driving, it’s off the A3 – follow the signs Milford and Haslemere.
The Merry Harriers is located in Hambledon in the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It is rather outstandingly beautiful. But mainly, there are llamas.
OWN YOUR OWN LLAMA (mug): And now, the smiling llama has become immortalised in ‘mug’ – as part of a fundraising appeal to raise money for Macmillan Cancer Support, set up by Lenses of Croydon. Photographer Robert Wilson Jr is a member of the group and donated this fabulous llama pic as part of the project. Read more and buy the mug here. (Other mugs are also available!)
I also wrote about the experience for The Scotsman – you can read the article here (it’s on page 2 – don’t panic
The Merry Harriers, Hambledon Road, Surrey GU8 4DR; phone 01428 682883; email enquiries@merryharriers.com. Inn rooms from £115 per night, garden rooms £110, shepherds’ huts £195, B&B
Photos copyright Rob Wilson Jnr at Fluid4Sight and Merry Harriers
It’s August and you haven’t booked to go away? No need! Opt for a staycation on the Isle of Wight instead – just a short trip on the ferry to this island off the south coast, you’ll feel you’re leaving the country without having to pack your passport. It’s the perfect destination for a short holiday, with great beaches, plenty of activities, interesting places to visit and a very good chance of fine weather. Or, if you’re close to the south coast, with crossing times of just 25 minutes on the brand-new Red Jet passenger ferry, it’s a day trip option as well.
The Isle of Wight is a beautiful spot. In 1963 half of the island was designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and 1974 its north west coast was recognised for the unspoilt natural beauty of its soft cliffs, woodlands, farmland and creeks and defined as the Hamstead Heritage Coast. It includes the National Trust land of Newtown National Nature Reserve and Forestry Commission woodland of Bouldnor Forest, and is a haven for wildlife, including the native red squirrel.
The opposite coast, with its rugged clay and sandstone cliffs was named as the Tennyson Heritage Coast. It includes the Needles chalk stacks and is a fossil rich coastline, well known for dinosaur footprints, chines and lighthouses.
Needless to say, this natural paradise is a big attraction for walkers and a coastal path winds its way around the island, accessed from Bouldnor near Yarmouth or Thorness near Cowes, with other footpaths from Newtown, Shalfleet and the surrounding areas leading across the fields and woodland to the coastline. Altogether there are 64 miles of coastal paths to rocky coves and dramatic clifftops and over 500 miles of footpaths on the island to suit both the gentle stroller and experienced hiker.
Isle of Wight: top things to do
1. Take a guided walk to discover local wildlife and landscapes or uncover the island’s dinosaur heritage on a fossil hunt. The island is often called ‘England in miniature’ and a walk will allow you to explore the very best of the English countryside, from sand dunes and coves to thatched villages and sailing towns. ‘Rambles by Bus’ have been developed by the Isle of Wight Ramblers and Southern Vectis to allow visitors to follow walks that start and end on a bus route.
2. Hire a bike once you land on the island – most ferry terminals are near a cycle route and the majority of routes are off-road, so suitable for all the family. There are over 200 miles of cycle tracks and off-road bridleways on the island and lots of cycle-friendly accommodation if you want to make this the focus of your visit. Some local businesses offer baggage transfers so you can cycle unimpeded from place to place.
3. Pay a visit to Queen Victoria’s former home, Osborne, with its own private beach. The monarch’s former home was owned privately and kept as a summer home and place of retreat for herself, Prince Albert and their family. Writing about it she said, “It is impossible to imagine a prettier spot”. Now owned by English Heritage, it is one of the island’s most popular tourist attractions, its grand rooms, including the family’s private apartments, still full of their possessions, including many of the gifts Prince Albert gave his wife. Outside the extensive grounds house a beautiful Victorian walled garden, the Swiss Cottage built for the royal children and woodland that runs down to a private beach. Admission is £15 for adults, £9 for children under 15, more information here.
4. See Carisbrooke Castle, where the deposed king Charles I was incarcerated before his beheading. The castle is over 1,000 years old and began life as an Anglo-Saxon fortress, built to provide refuge from the Vikings. As well as a prison, it has also been used as an Elizabethan artillery fortress and royal summer residence. Today, as well as its fascinating history, you will find donkeys working the 16th century treadwheel and an Edwardian-style Princess Beatrice Garden, designed by TV presenter and award-winning garden designer, Chris Beardshaw.
Adults £8.80, Children £5.20, more information here.
5. Visit the spectacularly sited clifftop fort and Victorian coastal defence, the Needles Old Battery for the best views of the iconic Needles, one of the island’s landmarks. You can explore its history through exhibitions, displays and memorabilia and take a trip into its underground tunnel for more spectacular views.
Adults £7.50, children £3.75, more information here.
6. Travel back in time on the island’s west coast, where you’ll find Stone Age burial tombs – long barrows – around Freshwater Bay and above the village of Mottistone. Barrows are also strung out along the tops of the downs at Headon Warren and Brook Down.
7. Go on a dinosaur hunt. Rapidly becoming known as Dinosaur Island, the cliffs and beaches around the coast are full of animal and plant fossils, with the oldest rocks formed back when dinosaurs walked the earth. The yellow, brown and grey rocks exposed in the bays of Compton, Brook and Brighstone contain fossilised tress and dinosaur bones and giant casts of dinosaur footprints in stone are a famous feature at Hanover Point.
8. Hang out on the beach – there are plenty to choose from. Most popular are Sandown beach, Whitecliff Bay, Shanklin (pictured above), Brightstone and Gurnard.
For more information on all of the attractions above, see Visit the Isle of Wight website
Stay
Haven Hall on the west coast, overlooking Shanklin beach, is one of the most stunningly-located hotels on the island, a haven of 5-star luxury and just recently opened. Read all about it here.
Eat
Thompson’s in Newport is run by the youngest chef ever to win a Michelin star, Robert Thompson, and offers classic cooking with a modern touch, using lots of the island’s superb local produce. The Waterfront at Totland Bay has amazing views and great food.
The Isle of Wight is a bit of a foodie paradise, don’t leave without buying some of the wonderful local produce, including its famous garlic. Yes, it even has a garlic festival.
Drink
Fisherman’s Cottage at the end of Shanklin beach has outside tables that are just a few feet away from the sea. It also does very good food.
Getting there
Red Funnel runs a regular passenger (travel time 25 minutes) and car (travel time 1 hour) ferry service to the island from Southampton (including a free shuttle bus from Southampton train station), see details and timetables here.
It’s a dog friendly service – read more here.
Red Funnel has also produced a Days Out guide, with suggested itineraries for day trips and four self-guided day trip tour packages including Queen Victoria’s Osborne, Carisbrooke Castle and Newport, Olde-World England, around Godshill and Shanklin, and Dinosaur Isle & the Isle of Wight zoo. Packages include travel to and from the island and cost £29.95 per person and there is also a cycling package for £28 per person, including bike hire.
You can also take the Wightlink ferry from Portsmouth and Lymington or Hovertravel from Southsea.
1. Start your trip to Dublin by getting your hands on a Dublin Bus pass. Not only will it let you access hop-on/hop-off tour buses so you can travel easily around the city and see the sights, it will also give you free or reduced entry into over 30 top Dublin attractions, as well as special offers and discounts at restaurants, bars and gift shops. If you buy it online and get it before you go (by post or on your mobile phone) you can also use it to travel for free on the bus from the airport to the city centre. The pass comes with a mini guidebook packed full of information and there’s also an app where you can access more. It’s available for 1, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days and prices start from €59 for an adult ticket, €29 for a child.
(And of course, this being Dublin, not only do you get a full tour of the city on the big red buses that run every 15 minutes all day, from 9am to 6pm and then on the half hour until 7pm, you also get the bus driver banter. The stories, the insider info – such as the best place to find a pint of Guinness – and the passenger chats. If you want to be really ‘looked after’ in Dublin, take the tour!)
2. Ireland’s National Museum is a great place to start your Irish visit, exploring the history of this ancient land from prehistoric times through early Celtic, Viking and medieval periods. Current exhibitions include preserved bog bodies from the Iron Age, as well as insights into some of the world’s oldest passage grave monuments at the ancient Irish seat of kings, the Hill of Tara. The museum is located in Kildare street and close to the National Library, National Gallery, Government Buildings and St Stephen’s Green, right in the heart of the city. Free
3. Directly opposite is the National Library, where – among other things – you can explore your Irish ancestry. WB Yeats lovers will be delighted to find an ongoing exhibition devoted to the great writer’s life and works. (Being one, I certainly was). Free
4. Completing the triad of historical art and culture, and located nearby, is Ireland’s National Gallery, showcasing a collection of European paintings with a strong emphasis on Irish artists including Jack B Yeats, Paul Henry, Sir John Lavery and Walter Osbourne. You’ll also find one of the most recent Caravaggio’s to be discovered, The Taking of Christ, found lurking in the dining room of the Dublin Jesuits’ order home in 1990, and on loan to the gallery since. Coming up in July and running until the end of the year is an exhibition devoted to the, often previously hidden, works of Irish women artists. Free
5. Even more so than its artists, Ireland is particularly well known for its writers and, as the Dublin Writers’ Museum on the north-side of the city explains, “though geographically outside the spread of Western culture, Ireland has an undue proportion of the world’s greatest writers”. And this small but perfectly formed museum showcases all of the greats, including Ireland’s four Nobel Literature Prize winners, WB Yeats, George Bernard Shaw, Samuel Beckett and Seamus Heaney. Here you’ll also find James Joyce, Bram Stoker – the author of Dracula – Brendan Behan and Oscar Wilde. It’s also a great chance to see inside a Dublin Georgian mansion, with its grand sweeping staircase, ornate ceilings and painted wall decorations. Admission €7
6. Close to the Writers’ Museum is the James Joyce Centre, a museum dedicated to one of Ireland’s great writers, the infamous, formerly-banned, terribly complex James Joyce, author of what is widely believed to be the 20th century’s greatest – and most impenetrable – works of fiction, Ulysses. Housed in yet another grand though faded Georgian mansion at 35 North Great George’s St, this former townhouse of the Earl of Kenmare was turned into a dancing academy by Prof Denis Maginni, who features several times in Ulysses, a very colourful character by all accounts.
The house owes its continued existence to Joycean scholar Senator David Norris, a neighbour on the street who saved it from demolition in the 1980s. And one of the key dates on its calendar of events is Bloomsday – that famous date in literary history, June 16 1904 – the day depicted in Ulysess when the hero Leopold Bloom takes his stroll around the city of Dublin, from 8am through to the early hours of the next day. Celebrations include dressing up in the fashion of the period and visiting all of Bloom’s stops on his journey, as well as readings, performances and the legendary Bloomsday Breakfast, including liver and kidneys alongside the traditional fry. Admission €5
7. Staying with legendary writers, in an exhibition – and cultural space – new to the city of Dubin, the Seamus Heaney Listen Now Again showcase draws on the National Library’s extensive archive of Heaney documents and features the poet’s original manuscripts, letters, unpublished works, diary entries, photographs, note books and multi-media recordings. This will be the first exhibition to be housed in the new Bank of Ireland Cultural and Heritage Centre in central Dublin.
8. Another writer who features heavily in Dublin’s history, though he wasn’t always delighted to be a part of it, is Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels and Dean of St Patrick’s Cathedral, the national cathedral of the Church of Ireland. It is believed to be built on the site of a former church established by St Patrick himself, the much-loved patron saint of Ireland. Today’s beautiful building was re-established by a grandson of Arthur Guinness, Benjamin Lee Guinness. Admission €7
9. Which brings us neatly to one of Dublin’s most famous attractions, the Guinness Storehouse, where, it is said, you will be served the finest glass of the black stuff in the world. Arthur established his brewing premises in 1759 at the St James’s Gate Brewery, signing a 9,000-year lease at £45 per year, making it one of the best-value investment in Dublin’s history. The brewery produces 3 million pints of Guinness every day and also offers 360° views of the city. Our tour bus driver treated us to a rendition of ‘You’re drunk, you’re drunk you silly old fool’ as we drove past. Advance admission from €19.50
10. Also in this area, which was heavily colonised by the Vikings and Normans in medieval times, is Christchurch Cathedral, once a major pilgrimage site which housed relics including a miraculous speaking cross and a piece of the Baby Jesus’ crib. Founded almost 1000 years ago, the building was in ruins by the 17th century when it was rescued and revived by another purveyor of alcoholic beverages – Henry Roe, whiskey distiller. A mummified cat and rat in the crypt are referenced in James Joyce’s other famous – and even more complex – work, Finnegans Wake. Admission €7
11. Henry Roe’s distillery closed down in the 1926, despite producing 2 million gallons of whiskey a year in its heyday, probably the highest output of any distillery in the world at the time, and twice as much as the Jameson Distillery was producing. Jameson’s is still going however and you can visit its Bow St premises in Dublin’s Smithfield where you will be given three shots of whiskey to try – American, Scotch and Irish. No prizes for guessing which you are supposed to favour. Admission from €17
12. Catch traditional Irish music seven days a week at a local Smithfield pub. The Cobblestone in North King St is legendary but there are plenty to choose from, all located easy wandering distance from each other so take it handy and have the craic. (The craic for the uninitiated is a particular blend of fun, enjoyment, conversation and entertainment much loved by the Irish on a night out). Free
13. History buffs will find much to engage them at Kilmainham Jail, scene of imprisonments and executions during the famous Irish rebellions of 1798, 1803, 1848,1867 and 1916, as well as the holding pen for convicts on route to Australia. Closed as a prison in 1924, it’s now a museum offering guided tours through the evocative building and several generations of Irish history. Nearby, the War Memorial Gardens commemorate the 50,000 Irish men who died in the First World War. 120,000 fought for the British Army, while back in Dublin, their countrymen were fighting against the British for control of their own country. The modern monument opposite the gardens, 15 blindfolded statues, represents the 15 leaders of the Easter Rising shot by British in May 1916. All were shot standing except one, James Connolly, who was too injured to stand and was strapped to a chair for his execution. Advance admission from €8
14. For a very contemporary take on Irish history, The Vaults is a new 60-minute actor-led journey through 800 years of Ireland’s past, blending live performance with special effects and lots of audience participation. It is opening soon in the newly-renovated old Augustinian St John’s National School, just off Thomas Street.
15. Shop for Irish gifts and souvenirs in the city centre; fashionable Grafton St on the south side, with the nearby Kilkenny Shop, Powerscourt Centre and Avoca perfect spots to browse the best of Irish design, crafts and gourmet food. Over on the north side, Henry St has lots of traditional high street boutiques and shopping centres, as well as the famous Moore St market.
16. Take coffee and cake in Bewley’s Café on Grafton Street, one of Dublin’s most iconic and celebrated landmarks, which has recently undergone a multi-million- euro refurbishment. Check out Bewley’s Café Gourmand, the Coffee Opera Cake and, an original favourite, the Bewley’s Mary Cake.
17. Stay at the Fitzwilliam Hotel, overlooking St Stephen’s Green in the heart of the city, which is a peaceful place for a relaxing early morning stroll. With top floor balconies overlooking the beautiful gardens, contemporary interiors that still have space for a cosy fire in the foyer and a very stylish afternoon tea option in the fashionable Inn on the Green bar, it’s a great city centre location to base yourself for your trip. Rooms from €289, afternoon tea from €39
18. If you want to splash out on some old-world glamour, head across the Green to the Shelbourne Hotel, where the guest register includes names like Greta Garbo, Laurel and Hardy, Rock Hudson, Princess Grace of Monaco and the Kennedy’s. The hotel’s 265 rooms have undergone a complete refurbishment in the last 18 months and its spa’s ‘drawing room’ relaxation area is one of the most sumptuous you will ever see. Or you could just pop in for a drink to the famous horse-shoe bar, where media stars and local characters rub shoulders. Traditional afternoon tea in the Lord Mayor’s room overlooking the Green €49; rooms from €300, suites from €1800
19. Dublin has another connection with legendary film stars – did you know that the famous MGM lion who roars at the start of each film is from Dublin Zoo? The Zoo is located in the Phoenix Park, the biggest enclosed public park in any capital city in Europe, just a mile and a half from the city centre. It’s a pleasant stroll out there along the River Liffey, which flows through the centre of the city and divides Dublin into north and south sides. Or, if you take the Dublin tour bus, the Zoo is one of the scheduled stops. Admission €17.50
20. And, staying with film stars and cinema, check out the beautifully restored Stella Theatre, an iconic cinema in buzzy Rathmines, a throwback to the glamour and glitz of the 1920’s and just short distance from the centre.
21. For more traditional theatrics, there’s the world-famous Abbey, Gate and Gaiety Theatres with programmes of Irish and international new works and classics. And this year’s Dublin Theatre Festival runs from the end of September to mid-October.
22. Private art donations provide some of the most inspiring collections in the city, including the Hugh Lane Gallery, an impressive array of modern works in the beautiful north-side gallery with its imposing architecture. Here you can also visit the studio of Francis Bacon, painstakingly re-created exactly as the artist left it on his death, namely, in complete chaos. Bacon claimed the mess was like his mind: ‘My life is like that, I needed to create in chaos – chaos suggests images to me’. Free
23. The other private collection bequeathed to the State is the Chester Beatty Library, located in Dublin Castle and a short distance walk from Trinity College and Grafton St. (If you’re in Trinity College, don’t forget to see the Book of Kells, the illuminated gospels dating from around 800). Described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Dublin, but one of the best in Europe, with exotic artefacts from across Asia, the Middle East, North Africa and Europe. At any one time only one percent of the collection is on display so even with regular changes, it is would not be possible to see all of the collection in a lifetime; quite amazing to think of breath and scope of it. Free
24. Dublin Castle, for many years the base of British rule in Ireland, is itself open to visitors and its current exhibitions include Coming Home: Art and the Great Hunger. This shows 50 acclaimed artworks from the world’s largest collection of famine-related art at Ireland’s Great Hunger Museum in the US, the first time they have been seen in Ireland. Admission from €6.50
25. For the latest finds on the food scene, try Berlin-d2, newly re-opened in Dame Lane, Boeuf in South William Street and Opium in Wexford St.
26. Those of a sporty nature will love the newly re-opened 132-year-old Clontarf Seawater Baths, with an open seawater swimming pool, bar and restaurants, all with panoramic views of Dublin Bay. Clontarf is a coastal suburb, not far from the city centre, most famous for the 1014 Battle of Clontarf where Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland, defeated the Vikings and ended the long-running Viking wars.
27. More for adrenaline junkies: there’s wakeboarding at Dublin docklands, from €25; white water rafting on the River Liffey, from €59; zip-lining at Tibradden, close to the city, from €15 and mountain bike trails at Ticknock, from €35. Meanwhile armchair enthusiasts can catch the GAA football and hurling season throughout the summer, with matches played most weekends.
28. Enjoy green living within the city. The National Botanic Gardens of Ireland are located just 3km from the city centre in Glasnevin. The garden is free to visit or you can take a guided tour for a small fee, enjoying the wonderful plants in gardens and glasshouses, including 300 endangered species and six that are already extinct. Afterwards pay a trip to the nearby Glasnevin Cemetery, which dates from the 19th century and is the final resting places of Irish notables including Daniel O’Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell, Eamon de Valera, Maude Gonne, Constance Markievicz, Kevin Barry and Brendan Behan. One of the most visited graves in the cemetery is that of Michael Collins, the nationalist leader who signed the Anglo-Irish treaty with the British government to create the Irish Free State and was later assassinated for his ‘betrayal’ in the Irish Civil War.
29. Get some sea air. Dublin’s coastal location makes it a great city break with a seaside option, and buses and the local DART train service run regularly to a wide range of beaches and clifftop walks. Check out Howth Head, Skerries, Dun Laoghaire Harbour, Sandymouth Strand or Killiney Beach for starters.
For more information on visiting Dublin and Ireland, go to www.VisitDublin.com and www.Ireland.com. Aer Lingus operates daily flights from London Gatwick and Heathrow to Dublin with fares from £32.99 one-way including taxes and charges. For more information or to book visit aerlingus.com
800 years ago, this place was a monastery. Monks climbed the stairs of this abbey, passed under the vaulted ceilings, enjoyed the sunlight through these huge stained-glass windows.
But they didn’t walk on carpet on their way to eat in a Michelin-starred dining room. They didn’t rock in the huge wooden swing by the lake. Nor would they have crossed the hump-backed bridge to the tiny island with its trees and treehouse.
Back then there were no swings or treehouses and the lake was a sewage facility for the 12th century monastery. Now the lake is a home to ducks and a family of herons, and the abbey-turned-hotel has been sympathetically preserved by an English family to display its wonderful architecture to a whole new generation of worshipers.
Only now we come to admire the beauty of the building, the gourmet food and the tranquil setting instead of God. But if you have any spiritual awareness at all, you’ll quickly find this beautiful place resonating with your soul.
There are 20 rooms in total at the Abbaye de la Bussière explains owner Clive Cummings when he picks us up at Dijon train station, a half hour drive from the abbey, including rooms in the main house as well as the various other buildings around the grounds, some of which have been converted into family suites.
There are two restaurants, again with soaring arches and magnificent architecture. The fine dining Michelin-starred restaurant is a grand affair with stone arches and chandeliers and offers both a tasting menu – matched with wines – and an a la carte, with choices including frogs’ legs, local freshwater zander and pigeon. But in fairness, the quality of the food is just as good in the hotel bistro, pictured below.
Our cosy double is nestled under the eaves with views of the gardens and lake. As befits its luxurious setting, it’s kitted out with a Nespresso machine and a welcome bottle of home-made peach liqueur – there’s a jacuzzi bath in the bathroom, fluffy robes and slippers in the wardrobe.
Bologna is the capital of the region and the main airport if you’re flying from the UK. And so, if you’re thinking food, you may be thinking ‘spaghetti bolognaise’. Don’t. It’s an aberration of Italian cooking and Italians have never heard of it.
What we know as ‘bolognaise’ is ragu in Italy; a simple tomato sauce, cooked with a mixture of pork and beef. It forms part of my first Italian lunch in a small village called Dozza, about three quarters of an hour’s drive from the airport, taken to break the journey to Ravenna, another half hour away.
At an atmospheric trattoria called La Locanda del Castello, in the shadow of a medieval castle, we eat home-made pasta with the ragu sauce, served alongside one of the regional specialities, capellitti pasta stuffed with three cheeses, served in a creamy Parmesan sauce.
In Emilia Romagna, tomato sauce contains nothing more than tomatoes and basil. It follows Pellegrino’s Artusi’s classic recipe from his La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiare bene – The science of cooking and the art of eating well – first published in 1891 and revised by him into 15 subsequent edition to include regional delicacies and reader recipes from around the country. It was Italy’s first national cookbook, collecting together classic dishes from the diverse city-states of which Italy was previously formed. And still today, you will find a much-thumbed copy in every Italian kitchen.
How to make Artusi’s tomato sauce
Saute a few thick slices of onion in 2 tablespoons of butter and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When the onion has browned, remove it from the saucepan. Stir peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes into the pan, add fresh basil, salt and pepper. Allow to simmer for half an hour, by which point the sauce will have thickened.
We get a chance to experience Artusi’s culinary wisdom and put it into practice at the Casa Artusi institute in the town of Forlimpopoli. Northern Italy is famous for its pasta, the south for its pizza, so it’s fitting that we learn how to make several different types of pasta – from simple shapes and twists to the more elaborate filled capellata, similar to tortellini.
It’s surprisingly easy to do and definitely easy to recreate in a UK kitchen, without the need for complicated pasta-making machines. All that’s required is strong white flour, eggs, a rolling pin and strong arm muscles (don’t worry if you don’t have them before you start – they’ll have developed by the end!)
As well as the cookery school, the institute houses a library, museum, wine cellar, shop, event space and restaurant, founded in the name of this famous gastronomist, a living celebration of home cookery. For lunch we eat the pasta dishes we’ve just made and are delighted with our newfound skills – there’s talk of setting up a Facebook competition to compare our future efforts.
How to make pasta
Using the ratio 100g of strong flour to one egg; pour the required amount of flour onto a large wooden board, make a hole in the centre and break in the eggs. Using a spoon, mix the eggs into the flour and once blended, use your hands to knead the mixture vigorously for about 10 minutes. Then cover and allow the dough to rest for up to 15 minutes.
Once rested, roll the pasta into a large thin disk using a rolling pin – the trick is to keep turning the dough to get an even spread that won’t break; Italians also like to hang part of the dough over the edge of the table, to stretch it out, ready to roll. Finally cut your pasta into the required shapes and cook, or stuff with cheese/meat/vegetables to make tortellini.
Casa Artusi arranges bespoke cookery lessons for groups of up to 20 people. Email info@casartusi.it for information and prices or visit the website at www.casartusi.it.
Taking a wine tour
‘Regional’, ‘local’ and ‘food from just down the road’ has always been at the heart of Italian cooking and not just the buzzwords they’ve become for us in recent years. It’s all part of the ‘kilometre zero’ approach to cooking; and ensures menus change with the season. Here even the wine is likely to have been produced just a few minutes away from where you’re sitting.
So you should definitely make time for a tour of some of the region’s wineries, and sample the grape varieties of Aballa – for white wine – and Sa – for red. There are lots of local wineries in the area, where production takes place on a small-scale level and bottles are sold and drunk locally. If you’re looking for some unique ‘money-can’t-buy’ (at home) gift ideas, here’s where you’ll find them.
Fattoria Paradiso is a family-run vineyard close to the beautiful medieval city of Bertinoro. Today, three generations of the Pezzi family work to make wines from a variety of grapes, including the famous Sangiovese, which fast becomes our favourite tipple for the rest of the trip. I would suggest it’s almost worth a trip to this part of Italy to try it out the Sangiovese of Romagna.
If wine is your thing, it’s worth hiring a guide to take you around the local wineries – more information at www.vinotour.it
Sampling the local cuisine in Ravenna and Rimini
When you’re not hand-rolling your own pasta to eat, try the lovely Osteria del tempo Perso, a traditional trattoria with net curtains, dark wooden furniture and plenty of locals, in the historical centre of Ravenna.
Or opt for a traditional lunch of piadina in Rimini – Italian flatbread with meat or vegetarian fillings – at Nude Crude, close to the historic quarter.
And once on the coast in Rimini, make use of the great sea views at an upmarket restaurant like Club Nautico, with its views of yachts tied up on the marina outside. Rimini is a bit of a party town and a popular seaside holiday destination for Italians; the beach strip has plenty of buzzing restaurants and bars.
What else is there to do in the region?
In-between meals you mean? Well, there’s plenty to do, from marveling at the beautiful mosaics for which Ravenna is world famous, to touring the medieval castles of the Malatesta and Montefeltro lands nearby.
Visit Castello di Montebello to hear its chilling ghost story. On the summer solstice 1375, a little girl disappeared in the castle storeroom and was never seen again. But every five years on summer solstice, she can be heard crying within the castle. On a guided tour you will be played recordings of what sounds like the plaintive cries of a child, made on recent solstices – it’s extremely eerie and a bit unsettling.
Less spooky is the Fortress of San Leo where, on the day we visit, a medieval re-enactment of life in the castle is taking place, complete with a medieval baby playing in the kitchen as women prepare a banquet and men demonstrate weaponry.
It’s a steep hike up to the fortress, so you’ll be wanting dinner after that. La Sangiovesa, is located in the picturesque town of Santarcangelo, wonderfully inventive Italian cooking produced with local ingredients.
Ravenna has eight UNESCO world heritage sites, which are the churches showcasing the wonderful mosaics that date back to the early part of the first millennium. Talk to a local about the Renaissance and they’ll dismiss it as recent history; the early Christian churches here date back to the 5th century. Back then, Ravenna had over 200 churches, and many of those remaining are clustered close together amid winding streets and large gardens.
You’ll need a ticket to visit the churches, but they’re well worth a look – it’s hard to believe that the shimmering colours and arresting images on the soaring ceilings, walls and domes, were worked in mosaic over 1600 years ago.
Back on the modern city streets, visit a mosaic workshop and see contemporary craftsmen at work, creating mosaic panels to hang on walls. You can buy them to take home with you or sign up for a mosaic workshop to create your own mini works of art. Visit www.kokomosaico.com for more information.
The region is also a great base if you want to go further afield for a day trip; Florence is just 99km away, Rome an hour and a half on a fast train. It’s well worth hiring a guide to show you the sights – and the best places to eat! We used the services of three during our four-day trip; for more information contact them individually: Paola.Golinelli@ad-arte.com, Nadia Smanio: nadiasm@tin.it, barbarastolecka@msn.com
Where to stay
We stayed at the Bisanzio Hotel in Ravenna – B&B from €80; and at Hotel Lungomare in Rimini, from €120 in peak season, €70 low season
Getting there
There are regular flights to Bologna with easyJet and British Airways from London Gatwick, and Ryanair from Stansted, Manchester, Bristol, Edinburgh and Dublin.
More information
For further information on Emilia Romagna, visit www.emiliaromagnaturismo.it/en – follow on Twitter @ERTourism
]]>Day 1
It’s the day after the hottest day of the year. Two Uber drivers have just cancelled my booking, so I take my walking stick and my suitcase and haul myself and it onto the bus. I arrive at East Croydon train station, knowing already I’ve missed the train I wanted to catch.
It doesn’t matter. The heat is still melting overhead lines and the train schedules are up the walls. Eventually I get on one, arrive at Horsham exactly one hour later than planned and jump in a taxi for the 20-minute drive to the Simply Healing Retreat, where I’m about to have nothing except juice for 3 days.
A call on my mobile from the engineer who’s arrived to fix my internet, claiming he’s outside my house getting no response to the bell – I know my flatmate is in there – means I arrive in a cloud of expletives, trying to reassure the man he will get in, calling my flatmate to see where the hell he is, phoning my upstairs neighbour to see if she’s around and scaring the taxi driver, who drives off quickly after leaving me at the door.
I stand outside a rather lovely red-bricked country house surrounded by gardens and rolling fields, shouting into my phone as somebody tiptoes out of the house, picks up my suitcase and takes it inside, smiling and nodding at me, telling me to take my time.
I hang up and take a deep breath. Here the heat isn’t as oppressive as in London, there’s a gentle breeze and rustling leaves. There are sunloungers and sculptures in the gardens and a hanging swing under some trees. I step inside to a quiet peaceful space with couches, take another breath and think, wow, I’m glad I didn’t come shouting in here.
Later, after I’ve checked into my room – a gorgeous light-filled space with views of the garden – changed into my robe and padded back down in my slippers to the treatment room for my body scrub, I feel totally relaxed.I’ve left bad Uber drivers, messed up trains, mixed up internet appointments and my grumpy self behind. And because I had a big hunk of bread and blue cheese before I left the house, I don’t yet feel hungry.
At 4.30 there’s ‘afternoon (herbal) tea’ at reception (just tea, no sandwiches, cake or scones sadly) and I meet some of my fellow ‘inmates’ who’ve been here a few days. Two of them say they’ve done nothing but sleep for their first full day and I think, good on you, sleep is hugely underrated in this life. There are 8 of us here for the weekend, everybody has their own story, all of us wanting to detox and relax for one reason or another.
It’s a great place to swap stories and information and most people here have come on personal recommendations so I hear many positive Simply Healing success stories. The guests who’ve been here for a few days are already looking refreshed and glowing – ‘honestly, you wouldn’t believe the difference in her since she arrived’, one man tells me about a fellow guest, and I wonder if I’ll be radiant too when I leave. Then I go out to the garden and spend half an hour swinging on the lounger under the trees.
At 5.30pm I have my first juice – something green with celery – and then meditation at 7 – a guided journey led by Vivien, the shamanic healer who runs the retreat. And I’m delighted to find that at 7.30 we have soup! Detox soup albeit – pea, lettuce and mint – but soup nonetheless. My teeth fall excitedly on shreds of lettuce and two whole peas, chewing enthusiastically.
I don’t start to feel hungry until around about 9pm, back in my room, tucked up for the night. There are TVs and DVD players in our rooms – with lots of DVDs to borrow from the big book-filled sitting room downstairs – but we’re encouraged to keep the volume low to allow others to rest, with everything turned off by 10.30pm. Mobiles are not allowed in the public areas and we’re reminded to speak softly when using them in our rooms.
My stomach is rumbling uncomfortably but – prepared for hunger – I’ve brought the latest Jo Nesbo thriller with me, Knife. If the antics of his depressed alcoholic detective Harry Hole can’t keep my mind off food, nothing can.
Day 2
I’ve gone to sleep starving, fantasising about juicy burgers smothered in fried onions and blue cheese. I rarely eat burgers, much less blue cheese, my detox seems to have uncovered my inner burger fan. But I wake up at 7am feeling okay. Not hungry. Not full. Just normal.
There’s hot water with lemon at reception where we detoxers discuss our night’s sleep (up every hour to pee, recounts one – toxins clearly coming out). There should have been a walk around the deer farm and through the fields this morning but, unlike yesterday’s searing temperatures, today is grey and wet.
Then it’s time for juice at 8.30am, which is served communal style in the large dining room. I spotted a biscuit barrel in the corner as soon as I walked in here yesterday – sadly empty (natch).
There’s a nice social aspect to the retreat, as we all gather together to drink juice, but it’s easy to have as much time as you want to yourself also – everybody has their own schedule of timed treatments.
There’s an exercise room with power plates and a chi machine, which is an interesting piece of equipment. Big with the Japanese, it works by moving the legs gently from side to side to circulate blood efficiently around the body, helping cells to absorb oxygen and remove toxins. Chi is the Chinese word for ‘life force energy’ and our life force energies can do with a helping hand from time to time.
I have reflexology at 9am, a lovely treatment that establishes I have no major issues with my body parts – replaced hip aside. I find reflexology fascinating. A sort of foot massage for the soles of the feet, it claims that every part of the body is connected to the bottom of the foot and by working on each section of the foot, therapists can help to heal the related body part. Sound crazy? I’ve had very accurate diagnoses from it, so don’t rule it out even though Wikipedia will tell you there “is no convincing evidence that reflexology is effective for any medical condition”. And I’m told I look “blissful” by one of the other guests after my treatment – so don’t tell me there is no benefit to this!
Then it’s juice at 11, 1 and 2.30, afternoon tea at 4.30, more juice at 5.30, meditation at 7 and carrot and sweet potato soup at 7.30. I also have a manual lymphatic drainage massage at 1.30 so it’s a packed schedule here – no lazing around detoxing for us! It does help to keep hunger at bay for a while – all that wandering down to the dining room, going for treatments, strolling out to the garden to sit on a sun-lounger. And all that drinking of juice – all freshly prepared, a different recipe each time. And I probably should point out that nobody else on the retreat feels hungry as they are all taking supplements with their juices to help with their cleansing. Just me then…
I’ve practically been put into a coma by my lunchtime massage, so deeply relaxing is the experience, so have to indulge in a half-hour nap back in my room. Where they’ve thoughtfully replaced yesterday’s velvet throw with a snuggly fur one in deference to the weather.
But despite it all, I’m still hungry by early evening, with the beginnings of a slight headache. I’ve had to stop reading the second book I’ve brought with me, Is Butter A Carb? Unpicking Fact from Fiction in the World of Nutrition. All that talk of proteins and fats is making me salivate.
I go for a walk with a few of my companions around the next-door deer farm to keep my mind off it. No deer in sight. Probably just as well. I can’t stop thinking about venison. There’s a slight uphill incline on the way home which has us all puffing slightly and for some God unknown reason, we’ve talked about nothing but food on the entire journey.
Still, that night I turn on the lamps in my bedroom, cosy up with my fur blanket on the couch, and let Harry Hole take my mind off everything again.
Day 3: the final day
I’m definitely hungry when I wake up on day 3 but also happy, looking forward to the salad I will be having for lunch. Yes, it’s my last day today and I get to have a salad before I go, introducing my body back to solids gradually. Vivien, who runs Simply Healing, recommends that we introduce light food gradually once we leave, stick to the juicing and carry on drinking the four bottles of water we’re encouraged to take every day. We’re all issued with water bottles with our names on them on arrival and I’ve been carrying mine with me everywhere.
Vivien is an interesting person. A trainer healer and shaman, she has run the Simply Healing Retreat in Sussex for the past 20 years and counts celebrities and Royal Families among her guests. She has worked all over the world, starting in California where she introduced her juice retreats 30 years ago, after using the technique to manage her own health issues. She’s run healing clinics all over the UK and Ireland, led pilgrimages to sacred sites in Peru, Egypt and Mexico and still leads tours to meet the shamans of Manu Picchu every year.
The Sussex retreat has a massive 68% visitor return rate and there’s no doubt from leafing through the visitors’ book at reception that guests have experienced amazing benefits from their time here. With people returning for the second, third and fourth times, comments describe the programmes as “life-changing”, “heart-warming”, “mind-opening” and “amazing – didn’t want to leave”. “I lost my weight and found myself” says one poignant entry.
Guests also pay tribute to the support they receive from staff – all of the therapists are highly qualified and experienced and have worked with Vivien for many years, because “they like it here”, she explains. Running the retreat with her daughter, she bought the house to open it to others and carry on her healing work. In addition to the prescribed detox and weight-loss programmes, additional treatments, including one-to-one sessions with Vivien herself, are available as add-ons. Groups are kept small, 12 guests is the maximum number the house can hold but 10 is the average – the weekend I visit, there are just 8 of us.
And while our bodies have sophisticated mechanism for detoxing themselves – namely our liver, kidneys, gut, skin and lungs (as my nutrition book Is Butter A Carb? reminded me before hunger drove me to put it down) – it really does help to step out of our busy lives occasionally to take a good look at how we’re eating and how we’re living. It’s easy to get into bad habits when life is too rushed, too fast, too stressed – and it’s of no help at all to our guts, liver, kidneys and the rest to live like this.
Having a routine is a good way to make a change and I enjoy the regular juice times during the retreat, vowing to stick to something similar back at home. Most of my days kick off to an erratic start, with lots of rushing around. Making time in the morning to take some juice, eat a mindful breakfast and fill up a water bottle is a much better option – it will just take a bit of organising.
And now it’s time for me to leave. I’ve had my detox massage after my morning juice, taken a stroll around the grounds, drank more juice, rocked in the swing, eaten my lunch-time salad and had a quick chat with Vivien – she gives each guest a personalised one-to-one consultation before they leave, offering advice on incorporating elements of the detox diet into everyday life.
Okay, I admit it, I had a bar of chocolate as soon as I got to the train station for the journey home. And it tasted glorious. But since I’ve been back I’ve continued to juice every morning, keep a water bottle beside me to sip from throughout the day and am eating lots of fresh vegetables and fruit.
My skin looks clearer and my eyes are brighter. I feel a bit lighter, less bloated. But more importantly, I have a healthy routine now which fits in easily with my everyday lifestyle. While our bodies don’t constantly need to go through the extremes of detoxing, it’s certainly useful to take a step back and re-adjust bad habits. It has certainly helped me.
Read my Simply Healing review in The Scotsman
The Simply Healing Detox Retreat, West Sussex, offers 5, 7 or 10 day detox and weight-loss programmes, as well as weekend retreats; for more information visit www.simplyhealingcentre.com, call 01403 822117 or email info@simplyhealingcentre.com
From ice skating, light trails and spending the night in the home of the Christmas card, see our round-up for festive inspiration in 2018
Go ice skating
Some of the London ice rinks are open already – you can get your skates on at the National History Museum, on its wonderful rink in front of the historical building, surround by light-bedecked trees. There’s a café bar overlooking the rink if you’re not a skater – treat yourself to a hot chocolate and mulled wine.
Until 6 January, tickets from £12 adults, £8.80 children, £39.60 families; Nhm.ac.uk
Once the outdoor fun is over, pop inside to check out the stunning images in the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition (tickets £15/£9)
One of the most beautiful rinks in London, Skate at Somerset House (pictured above) takes place in the iconic building’s courtyard, under a 40ft Christmas tree. Hosted in association with Fortnum & Mason, after the skating visit alpine inspired restaurant Fortnum’s Lodge or shop at Fortnum’s Christmas Arcade.
There’s a skate school where you can learn to skate or brush up your skills; alternatively book a Skate Mate to provide assistance for novice skaters – available for 3 to 15 people, (cost £35 in addition to the price of your skating ticket). Special Skate Lates will feature leading DJs and artists on rink-side decks.
The rink is also open to wheelchair users and there are special dedicated wheelchair sessions.
From November 14 to January 13; £11 adults, £8.50 children; Somersethouse.org.uk
The ice rink at the Tower of London gives visitors a chance to skate in the moat surrounding one of London’s most famous landmarks, with stunning views of the Tower and the river Thames.
From November 23 to January 6; £14.50; Toweroflondonicerink.co.uk
Visit Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland for a chance to skate on the biggest outdoor rink in the UK, surrounding the park’s Victorian bandstand, and illuminated with over 100,000 lights. Afterwards, check out the park’s Christmas markets, Magical Ice Kingdom, Enchanted Forest, Santa Land and fairground rides.Read more about the Winter Wonderland Christmas market here.
From November 22 to January 6; £9.50 adults, £7.50 children, £30 family: Hydeparkwinterwonderland.com
Skate around Henry VIII’s sixteenth-century pad at the Hampton Court Palace ice rink, a very picturesque backdrop, especially when lit up after dark.
From November 23 to Jan 6, £14.50; Hamptoncourtpalaceicerink.co.uk
Christmas days and nights out
London Zoo is celebrating Christmas with a fabulous magical light trail and is also giving visitors a chance to upgrade to a VIP sleepover experience and spend the night in the zoo as well! From 4.45pm, the zoo will be transformed into a magical wonderland of twinkling decorations, illuminated animal sculptures, singing trees, light tunnels, festive food treats and surprises. Meanwhile, overnight guests will be staying in one of the zoo’s cosy lodges – nestled in the heart of the Land of the Lions! Are you brave enough…
Select dates from 22 November to 1 January; £16.50 adults, £10.50 children, £52 family, under-3’s and carers free
Overnight stay includes lodge accommodation, tour of Land of the Lions guided by ZSL’s experienced hosts, access to Christmas light trail, 2-course buffet dinner, behind-the-scenes tour, early morning zoo tours, full English breakfast, 2-day access to the zoo and exclusive discounts; from £378
Zsl.org
Winter at Southbank Centre is a packed programme of festive fun and entertainment. It includes two new family shows: Circus 1903 (from the award-winning War Horse puppeteers), running from 19 December to 5 January at the Royal Festival Hall, and Rumpelstiltskin at the Queen Elizabeth Hall from 13 December to 6 January.
The roofs of the Hayward Gallery, Royal Festival Hall and Queen Elizabeth Hall will be illuminated by David Batchelor’s Sixty Minute Spectrum project, featuring a variety of coloured flashing lights in every colour of the rainbow.
Handel’s Messiah will be performed by Philharmonia Orchestra at the Royal Festival Hall on 16 December, with an afternoon of timeless classics earlier that day in the Hall, with Christmas at the Movies.
Free events include a traditional festive Caribbean music concert, Argentinian tango performances and lessons, Strictly Winter Ballroom and swing classes, and 30-minute performances by a variety of choirs in the foyer of the Queen Elizabeth Hall from December 11 to 23.
And if all of that wasn’t enough, the traditional Southbank winter market will be taking place outside, with a range of alpine lodge stalls, pop-up bars and festive food and drink. Read more about London’s Christmas markets here.
From 9 November to 6 January (Christmas market until 27 December); Southbankcentre.co.uk
In Greenwich, the Royal Observatory’s festive programme includes Christmas Stars, an investigation of what the night sky has to offer in December as we head toward Christmas in this festive-themed show. Presented live by a Royal Observatory astronomer, the show will look at the moon, constellations and planets.
Runs throughout December; £8 adults, £5.35 children; Rmg.co.uk
A Christmas concert under the hull of Greenwich’s Cutty Sark features Merry Opera performing Mozart, Verdi, Puccini, Gilbert and Sullivan, as well as sea shanties and a reading of Robert Louis Stevenson’s poem, Christmas at Sea, which is 150 years old this year.
16 December; £25, includes a mulled cider and mince pie slice; Rmg.co.uk
Take a tour of the Queen’s House in Greenwich to discover the fascinating royal history and iconic architecture of this ‘house of delight.
Throughout December 2018 and January 2019; £10 adults
On 6 December Christmas in the Queen’s House offers candlelit tours of the house, carol singers, a lecture on pageantry, wreath workshop, mulled wine and mince pies (£8). Rmg.co.uk
Festive Family Fun at London Transport Museum features a magical forest, with twinkling lights and trees, Santa’s Secret Christmas Cabin, storytelling sessions, craft workshops and a musical Christmas vintage bus tour around the lights and sights of London.
From 1 December to 6 January; £16 adults, free for children; Ltmuseum.co.uk
Escape the capital
Spend the night in the home of the creator of the first Christmas card, Sir John Calcott Horsley, who established Orestone Manor in south Devon. The 19th century Georgian Manor is now a family-run, luxurious country house hotel, set in landscaped gardens overlooking Lyme bay. It’s run by husband and wife chefs, Neil and Catherine D’Allen, who have scooped double AA Rosettes for their restaurant and double gold-wins in the Taste of the West hotel and restaurant awards.
Pictured above, the very first Christmas card was commissioned by Sir Henry Cole and drawn by John Horsley at Orestone in 1843. 1,000 cards were printed and sold, but today just under 20 are in existence – you can see one at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. But you can send your own ‘original’ card (in reproduction) from Orestone in the run up to Christmas this year, with special packages available for stays at the Manor until 23 December.
Orestone Manor was also the scene of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s National Portrait Gallery painting, created by Sir Horsley (his brother-in-law) on the Manor’s lawn.
Overnight stays from £110; Orestonemanor.com
More festive frolics
Our favourite Christmas markets in the UK and Europe for 2018
Visit a cathedral: see our top picks in London and South East England