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City break | Bernadette Fallon https://bernadettefallon.com Travelling well: travel to inspire the mind Wed, 21 Mar 2018 16:54:50 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 Cathedral city: Edinburgh and St Giles https://bernadettefallon.com/article/cathedral-city-edinburgh-st-giles/ Tue, 12 Dec 2017 09:03:48 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=687

It’s believed that St Giles was founded around 1124 by King David and named in memory of a 7th century Greek hermit, the patron saint of – among other things – lepers. Only a few of the stones of the original medieval building remain and today the oldest part of the cathedral is believed to be the sanctuary at the crossing, dating from the early 1300s.

It’s played host to many famous characters over the years, including minister John Knox, one of the foremost proponents of the Reformation in Scotland, Jenny Geddes who may have been responsible for the start of the Civil War that overthrew the monarchy and the Knights of the Most Ancient and Most Noble of the Thistle, who have their own regal chapel in the cathedral. And John Knox is the reason dogs are welcomed in the cathedral, which is a very interesting story…

Have a look in St Giles at the 15th century Preston aisle, the former resting place of the arm bone of St Giles that now holds medieval monuments, grave stones and carvings; the stunning stained-glass window created in memory to the Marquis of Montrose, executed as a Royalist in 1650; and a wonderful set of memorials around the building to the great writers of Scotland.

For more information visit Stgilescathedral.org.uk

Edinburgh: cathedral city

It’s an exciting city, vibrant and buzzing with a great cultural scene, lively social life and centuries of fascinating history. The buildings are imposing and the views quite amazing from the hilly twists and turns of the old streets. And it’s on the sea, just a short bus or train ride from the city centre.

What to do: The Royal Mile is home to the cathedral, Edinburgh Castle, the Scottish Parliament, the house of John Knox and the beautiful Princes Street Gardens, all worth a visit; at the end of the ‘Mile’ the Palace of Holyroodhouse is the Royal Family’s official residence in Scotland and open to the public; the Edinburgh Festival, comprising the Festival Fringe, the International Festival, the Military Tattoo and the International Book Festival, runs throughout August and is world-famous but accommodation in the city is at a premium for the month.

Where to stay: The Scotsman Hotel, close to the main railway station, is housed in the former newspaper office and a plush retreat in the heart of the city.

Cathedrals of Britain: North of England and Scotland by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword books, £12.99, buy online here

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Cathedral city: Aberdeen, St Machar and William Wallace https://bernadettefallon.com/article/cathedral-city-aberdeen/ Mon, 11 Dec 2017 17:36:35 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=691

Aberdeen Cathedral, more properly known as The Cathedral Church of St Machar, has played a part in the fight for Scottish independence in conflicts that raged throughout the Middle Ages. This conflict goes deep into the very foundation of the church itself. And has created one of the cathedral’s most controversial situations. Because St Machar’s lost its cathedral status during the Reformation – like so many other cathedrals around the UK. But, unlike them, St Machar’s never had its status restored. So, despite the name, today it’s not a cathedral at all.

St Machar was a 6th century Celtic saint, a follower of the Irish St Columba who is credited with spreading Christianity in Scotland and the north of England. Machar established a place of worship in Old Aberdeen around 580 and there’s good evidence that this 6th-century place of worship was on the site of today’s cathedral. In 1131, King David I of Scotland moved a bishopric – the district under a bishop’s control – from Mortlach to the cathedral’s current site in Aberdeen because of its links with St Machar’s church and by 1165 a cathedral in the Norman style had largely been completed on this site.

Its treasures include Bishop Dunbar’s heraldic ceiling, with its 48 shields of Scotland’s bishops and archbishops, Europe’s royal houses and the Kings of Scotland, which dates from 1520; the 12th century Sanctuary Cross, whose origins go back to the early day of the cathedral and Machar himself and the wooden Barbour Tryptich dedicated to the 14th century poet John Barbour who wrote the epic poem ‘The Brus’ and who was for 40 years Archdeacon of Aberdeen. You’ll find more treasures outside the cathedral, where some of the original walls of the crossing and transepts can still be seen, left behind when this part of the building fell down.

Aberdeen: cathedral city

Located in Aberdeenshire on the east coast of Scotland, this has from medieval times has been one of the richest and most fertile regions of the Highlands and also home to Aberdeen Angus cattle.

What to do: The King’s Museum has an interesting exhibition of 18th century artefacts from the university, housed in the Old Town House, which also has a visitors’ centre and tells the story of the local history. Aberdeen Art Gallery shows contemporary Scottish and English works, alongside historical collections such as the Pre-Raphaelites, housed behind a grand old façade. The 210-year-old Glen Garioch distillery is just a few miles outside the city and has been producing single malt since 1797 – you can visit the room where 40,000 tonnes of barley were once turned by hand.

Where to stay: For some old world glamour, the Aberdeen Malmaison hotel and spa is a beautiful granite building on the outskirts of the city and its brasserie is renowned for its steaks.

Cathedrals of Britain: North of England and Scotland by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword books, £12.99, buy online here

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Cathedral city: Bradford, a hidden gem https://bernadettefallon.com/article/cathedral-city-bradford/ Mon, 11 Dec 2017 15:58:20 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=683

The earliest records of a church on this site date back to the 11th century, but findings on the site – carved stones thought to be part of a Saxon preaching cross – suggest this place was used for Christian worship as far back as the 7th century.

The oldest part of today’s cathedral is the nave, which dates from 1458, closely followed by the tower, added in 1508 and featuring, a century later, Bradford’s first public clock. Stones for other parts of the cathedral were used in its building, the date 1281 can be in the wall alongside the spiral staircase, carved by the master mason.

There are some fine examples of the work of William Morris here, the windows he designed that hold 30,000 separate pieces of stained glass. Earlier treasures include the remains of an Anglo-Saxon cross, a medieval piscine holding stone from the Garden of Gethsemane and – a quirky piece of history – the old worn steps leading up to the rood loft that existed before the 16th century Reformation.

Bradford: cathedral city

It’s come a long way since its industrialised past, but part of the charm of this new cosmopolitan city is the interesting way it has incorporated that heritage into its modern fabric.

What to do: Experience the city’s history with a walk through its streets, from Little Germany, the former world centre for the wool trade with its 19th century buildings, to Market St’s Wool Exchange, today the home of contemporary shops and cafes; visit the National Media Museum, celebrating Bradford’s unique position as the world’s first UNESCO City of Film; outside the city there’s Moorside Mills, a former spinning mill turned museum and former aristocratic homes, Bolling Hall with its medieval connections and Cartwright Hall in Lister Park, the home of Bradford industrialists.

Where to stay: Dating from 1885, the Midland Hotel is a throw-back to the days of glamorous railway hotels with its grand foyer, glittering chandeliers and old-world style. Its hosted Laurel and Hardy, The Beatles and the actor Sir Henry Irving in his very last minutes in the world – he died on the main staircase.

Cathedrals of Britain: North of England and Scotland by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword books, £12.99, buy online here

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Cathedral city: Sheffield – politics, power and intrigue https://bernadettefallon.com/article/cathedral-city-sheffield/ Mon, 11 Dec 2017 15:38:10 +0000 http://bernadettefallon.com/?p=675

Although Sheffield didn’t receive its cathedral status until 1914, the walls of the cathedral contain stones that date back to Norman times and the building tells the story of the changing community of this part of the country over 1,000 years.

What’s the story?

Within the chapels you’ll find the famous families who played their part in this history, from the Earls of Shrewsbury who hosted Henry VIII”s ill-fated cardinal, Wolsey, on his way to the Tower of London, as well as Mary Queen of Scots, under house arrest in Sheffield for 14 years. The families are still making news in the 21st century – several years ago, when the family crypt was opened, it was discovered that 15 bodies were missing from the tomb.

Other treasures to look out include the contemporary stainless steel baptismal font by artist and metalworker Brian Fell, a nod to the area’s steel manufacturing history, the cathedra (Bishop’s seat) that was donated by one of the candidates for the post of Sheffield’s very first bishop – he didn’t get the job – and the 13th century mass clock in the Lady Chapel.

Sheffield: cathedral city

It’s difficult to spend any time in Sheffield without being aware of the city’s steel heritage. If West Yorkshire trade is built on wool, the south is built on steel and iron. From the 18th to the 20th centuries, the region was the industrial centre of northern England with its riches of iron ore, coal and water.

What to do: Trace the history of steel in the Metalwork Gallery, part of the Millennium Gallery which includes the Ruskin Gallery collections of paintings and manuscripts by John Ruskin, and the Abbeydale Industrial Hamlet with its restored forges and workshops; escape industry at Meersbrook Park with views over the city and local museum in the grounds.

Cathedrals of Britain: North of England and Scotland by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword books, £12.99, buy online here

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