The island of Nevis in the West Indies doesn’t have an airport big enough to land international aircraft. Instead we land at St Kitt’s, drive for 20-minutes to Reggae Beach and board a water taxi for a 6-minute speedboat ride across the bay, arriving James Bond style on its white sandy shores.

Nevis is one of the smaller and lesser known Caribbean islands, despite the fact it was ruled by the British for over 200 years and was for a time the home of Admiral Nelson. Which means the Queen’s head is still on the local banknotes and English is the first language. Your bank card will work in the cashpoints and you don’t need a visa to enter.

The island measures just 36 square miles and has a population of 11,000, with the twin islands of Nevis and St Kitts making up the smallest nation in the western hemisphere. “Two islands, one paradise,” says the tourist board slogan.

Nevis offers the rare luxury of “exclusivity”, this unspoiled gem is how the Caribbean used to be, says its Minister for Tourism, Mark Brantley; “there are no high rises or fast food chains, no all-inclusive package holidays or mass tourism”. Neither are there cruise ships, traffic lights or bustling crowds, here you’ll find more monkeys than people, a place where sheep and goats graze freely at the sides of the roads.

Princess Diana used it as a refuge, holidaying here with the young princes and Harry returned on a royal tour of duty in 2016. It’s a favourite spot with Oprah Winfrey and Beyonce, Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones, John Travolta and Meryl Streep.

Read on the rest of the story in a feature recently published in The Scotsman travel magazine…

To visit Massachusetts and not spend time on Cape Cod would be a big mistake. While Boston is that most fantastic of urban spaces, a city with access to beaches where skyscrapers and scenic coasts merge, the beaches of Cape Cod are little nature paradises. And with regular ferries to both Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, it’s the perfect launch pad for some island exploration.

Take the train
It’s easy to get there on public transport, with daily buses from Boston South Station to Hyannis ($19 single). But if you are visiting during the summer months, from May to September, take the Cape Flyer train, which runs from Friday to Sunday ($22 single). It’s a rather glorious journey through scenic countryside and on to the ocean, crossing the stunning Buzzards Bay vertical lift bridge to the Cape, the second longest bridge of its kind in the world. First established in 1848, the railroad service discontinued year-round operation in the 1950s and the current service is a contemporary one that has been running since 1999.

Hit the beach

The best areas for beaches are Chatham and Truro, though with over 500 miles of coast, you’re never far from a stunning stretch of sand on the Cape. Local resident (and President of United States) John F Kennedy preserved the Cape Cod National Seashore, from Chatham to Provincetown, in 1961 for “the inspiration and enjoyment of people all over the United States”.

The Kennedy’s have had a summer home on the Cape since the 1920s and you can get a clear look at the family compound from Eugenia Fortes beach at Hyannisport, close to the poignant Kennedy Memorial. Other best beaches on the Cape include Sandy Neck at Sandwich, Old Silver Beach at Falmouth and Race Point at Provincetown. Divided into Upper, Mid, Lower and Outer Cape, Upper has calm tidal bay beaches, while Outer boasts the wild open Atlantic.

Visit the JFK Museum in Hyannis

A more intimate telling of the Kennedy ‘Camelot’ legend through rare and personal family photos and papers, the JFK Museum in Hyannis may be a lot smaller than the super-sized John F Kennedy Library in Boston but it is a treasure trove of exhibits. Featuring intimate behind-the-scenes images of the 35th President of the United States and his family, taken by their personal photographer Jacques Lowe, the museum charts a journey through the life of JFK, with a special focus on Cape Cod, the place he called home. A parallel exhibition looks at the life and work of Robert F Kennedy in the run up to his 1968 Presidential campaign.

Meet the locals
The stories of US immigrants and colonists are widely told. But we don’t hear so much about the native people their arrival often displaced. Down the road from the JFK Museum in Hyannis on Cape Cod, meet Iyannagh, sitting contemplatively on the village green. This statue to the leader of the Mattachiest tribe pays tribute to the American Indian ‘sachem’ – chief – who helped the Mayflower Pilgrims when they landed on Cape Cod before making their way to settle in Plymouth. He is the man responsible for the name Hyannis, and also part of the reason Americans sit down to eat Thanksgiving turkey every year.

Sail to Nantucket

If you spend the night in Hyannis, you’re perfectly placed to sail from Hyannis Port to the beautiful island of Nantucket in the morning, making it an easy day trip from the Cape ($25 round-trip).
The island, measuring just 14 miles by 3.5, has over 800 pre-Civil War homes, more than anywhere else in the USA. It also boasts 82 miles of coastline, 10 stunning beaches and hosts celebrity holiday homers like Tommy Hilfiger, Ben Stiller and Google’s Eric Schmidt. Bills Clinton and Gates are frequent visitors. After you’ve explored the quaint Main St with beautiful historic stone buildings and scenic marinas, it’s easy to travel around the rest of the island by hire bike or on the frequent buses.

Meet whales and artists
Nantucket’s Whaling Museum (admission $20) is just a short walk from the harbour where the Cape Cod ferry comes in and a good first port of call to get the history of this affluent island. It became famous as the whaling capital of the world in the 17th and 18th centuries, inspiring the novel Moby Dick by Herman Melville, and the museum tells the fascinating – and rather gory – story of this industry.

Once the whaling industry collapsed at the end of the 19th century, artists, attracted by the stunning natural landscapes and the light, began to arrive on Nantucket. Today a thriving artists’ colony still exists on the island. This is mainly centered around Sconset, with its quaint flower-bedecked cottages and long beaches, an easy 20-minute bus ride from the Main Street.

See the Gingerbread Houses on Martha’s Vineyard

Martha’s Vineyard makes another great day trip from Cape Cod and is an even quicker journey than Nantucket. Take a tip from the insiders and travel from the Cape on the Island Queen ferry from Falmouth, an easy half-hour journey ($22 round trip).
Less ‘preserved’ than Nantucket, it feels all the more real for it but none the less interesting historically. Its beautiful Gingerbread Houses are an easy walk from Oak Bluffs harbour, brightly coloured 19th century cottages with gingerbread trim that grew up around the Methodist tabernacle in Wesleyan Grove. Part of the Methodist summer campground established after the American Civil War, the houses replaced temporary tents as the congregation became more permanent and the era is now a National Historic Landmark.

Hang out in Falmouth
The coastal town of Falmouth is a great place to base yourself on a trip to the Cape, with its pretty beaches, pleasant shopping streets and the historic 19th century Highfield Hall estate with its contemporary art exhibitions. Browse independent boutiques for artworks, photography, contemporary homewares and very reasonably priced beachwear and fashion – and of course you’re never very far from a Cape Cod emblazoned sweatshirt! If you hire a car, the journey will take about an hour from Hyannis, travelling on the bus will add another 20 minutes or so onto your travel time.

Stay in a sea captain’s home

Stay half way between the beach and Falmouth Main Street at Shoreway Acres Inn, a historic house that was once the home of a sea captain, since extended into a comfortable inn. It’s set in pretty gardens, with lots of al-fresco chill-out areas, and indoor and outdoor pools. Family rooms from $119, Shorewayacresinn.com

Enjoy family fun at a water park
The Cape Codder Resort & Spa on the outskirts of Hyannis is ideal for families with its big water-park, several restaurants and bars and nightly live entertainment. Family suites from $359, Capecodderresort.com

Visiting Massachusetts? See 18 top things to do in Boston

More on the US: Why we should all visit America right now

Read my travel feature on Boston and Cape Cod published in The Scotsman

Images: Mike Galvin, William DeSousa, Bernadette Fallon

It’s not enough to hold a current UK passport when you visit the USA, you will also need prior authorisation, either through a visa, a Permanent Resident Card, or the Visa Waiver Programme. Most passport holders can get an Electronic System for Travel Authorisation (ESTA) through the Visa Waiver Programme, which means you don’t need to go to the bother of applying for a full visa. The ESTA allows travel to the US for up to 90 days and covers tourism, certain types of business trips and transit to another country.

You can apply for the ESTA online and it may take up to 48 hours to process, however you may also receive confirmation immediately after application. The US Customs and Border Patrol recommends that you apply at least 72 hours before departure.

If you are a UK residents you will most likely quality for the Visa Waiver Programme if you meet the following criteria:

your passport describes your nationality as a ‘British Citizen’
your passport is an ePassport
you haven’t been arrested for a crime, have a criminal record or have previously been refused admission into, or have been deported from, the US
you aren’t a dual national of Iran, Iraq, Sudan or Syria
you haven’t travelled to Libya, Iran, Iraq, Somalia, Sudan, Syria or Yemen since March 2011
you can show that you have enough funds available on arrival to support yourself during your stay, even if you’re staying with family and friends

The situation is the same for holders of Irish passports who are described as ‘Irish Citizens’.

Watch out for travel scams

But beware! You should only apply for the ESTA through the official website. Searching on Google for ‘US visa’ will bring up a number of seemingly reputable websites advertising ESTA applications. All use a variety of different web addresses including words such as ‘visa-express ‘, ‘evisa’, ‘online-visa-us’, etc, and advertise ‘fast processing’, ‘affordable rates’ and ‘dedicated support’.

Most look like official US government sites, to the extent of including the US Customs & Border Protection logo. They will ask all of the questions you would expect to be asked, regarding your travel plans, length of stay, address in the country, etc. These are legitimate questions, in fact they have all been copied from the official ESTA website. But when it comes to paying for your visa, you might notice the price is not clearly stated and it is only after you fill out your card details for payment and submit your webform that you are told you will be charged anything up to $100 US dollars for your visa application. A standard US visa through the official channels costs $14, so you are being considerably ripped off.

These sites are not ‘scams’ in the traditional sense of the word however. They will actually process your application and secure your visa. But the fact remains that you could have done this yourself, probably quicker, as it may take up to 48 hours to hear from these ‘rogue’ sites and you will quite likely have an answer from the embassy immediately. And you can certainly do it cheaper by doing it yourself. Why pay up to $100 dollars when the actual price is only $14?

Doing a quick Google search and clicking on to one of these sites – the perils of doing anything in a hurry with your mind half on something else! – I was completely taken in by it. The US Customs & Border Protection logo sitting reassuringly in the top left hand corner convinced me that I was on an official site. It was only when I submitted my application and received a notice telling me that I would be charged $90 for it, that I realised I had been ‘had’ – knowing the cost of a visa was actually only £14.

Cursing myself for rushing through the process and not taking the time to check out the site credentials, I quickly Googled the site and found lots of people in the same situation as me. However, taking heart from the number of people who said they had contacted the site’s customer services and demanded a refund of their money, I did the same. Within a few minutes I had an email saying that my application would be cancelled at my request and my money was refunded in full.

I was lucky – though I’m not sure all other visa providers would be so quick to refund. It did waste a lot of my time however, as I then had to go to the official site and fill in my application again. I also had the worry of not knowing whether my original application had been sent to the official ESTA processing system before I cancelled it. You can only apply for one visa at a time – the last thing you want is to have several visa applications pending as ESTA  may become suspicious and refuse your application.

So I could have saved myself a lot of time and angst had I just gone straight to the official site to begin with. As I say, these ‘express sites’ are not typical scams, just services chancing their arms but best avoided for peace of mind. Also, do you really want to share your bank or credit card details with a slightly dubious online practitioner? Don’t be fooled!

Why we should all visit America right now

Visiting the US: 18 top things to do in Boston

Cape Cod: where to go and what to do 

Image credit: Photo by Rob Wilson Jnr, Fluid4Sight

It feels strange to be writing about the US from here as Donald Trump touches down across the sea in the UK to protests, howls of rage and ridicule. (In the interests of fairness I must add that there are presumably people in the UK who think his visit is a good thing and support it. Farage and Johnson come to mind. Enough said.)

The image of that Trump balloon baby floating over Westminster will surely become one of the most surreal iconic images of our times. And what strange times they are.

America once took in the poor, the hungry and the downtrodden of the world. It gave them shelter, allowed them to work and to feed and clothe themselves, it gave them the chance to live. Some built roads and skyscrapers, some built empires, all built livelihoods that not only gave them better lives but often the only chance they had at life itself. From the famine fields of Ireland and the ghettos of Europe they came, and they made their contribution to America.

Now the poor, the hungry and the downtrodden are being housed in cages and subjected to genocide. (The UN’s definition of genocide under the statutes of the International Criminal Court includes the measure ‘forcibly transferring the children of the group to another group’).

I’m writing this on a bus from Falmouth to Hyannis in Cape Cod. The bus is like what I imagine a bus in 1950’s Ireland to be like – full of characters, banter and good humour. The driver knows most of the passengers, most of whom also know each other, and stories are being swapped as each one boards.

It’s exact fares only on this bus and, rather than take our big notes for which he couldn’t give us any change, the driver just took what dollars we could scrabble together. He wouldn’t even take my quarter coins which would have made up an extra dollar – telling me to give them to my friends as souvenirs when I went home instead.

The openness, friendliness and interest in other people is what have struck me the most about all of the Americans I have met as I’ve travelled around this little part of New England. From Boston to Cape Cod to Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, everywhere I’ve gone, I’ve met the same reaction. People here want to know where you’re from and are interested to hear your story. And whether they’re familiar with your culture or not, they are always complimentary.

Americans are living under one of the most divisive, unstable and – seen through the eyes of the world – unpopular regimes in history. Despite this they remain friendly, open and welcoming. It’s a good time to visit. To support their tourist economy that puts money in the pockets of ordinary people, to see their monuments, to understand their history.

Boston is a great place to start, to explore the events that led up to the American Revolution and the push for independence. From the city’s great Freedom Trail – which you can follow by yourself or take a guided tour – to the Boston Tea Party Museum – where you’ll get a chance to heave a tea crate over the edge of a ship – the city’s history is written in every twist and turn of its streets. Follow the tales of the founding fathers of independence, including Samuel Adams and Paul Revere, to the stories of more recent ‘immigrants’, such as John F Kennedy. His great-grandparents emigrated from Ireland in the 1800s to found this American dynasty and give the US one of its most charismatic presidents; a man who believed in equal rights for all Americans, whatever their race, colour or creed.

A Nation of Immigrants by John F Kennedy was published after his assassination in 1963. In it he writes about the 42 million people who have immigrated to the US since the arrival of the British in 1607 – the largest migration of people in all recorded history.

He says that ‘Immigration policy should be generous; it should be fair; it should be flexible. With such a policy we can turn to the world, and to our own past, with clean hands and a clear conscience’. And he quotes George Washington who said ‘The bosom of America is open to receive not only the opulent and respectable stranger, but the oppressed and persecuted of all nations and religions’.

We visited the JFK Library in Boston and the smaller, more intimate JFK Museum in Hyannis on Cape Cod, with its collection of rare, archival family photos. Afterwards we made our way along the beach to where the Kennedy Compound can be seen looking out to sea, the sea that so many immigrants crossed on their way to find a better life.

Colonisation and immigration are two very different sides of the same story and America has had its fair share of both. While much is said of the British settlers who came in the 1600s and who finally gained independence from their rulers back at home, the stories of the native Americans their arrival displaced are not as widely told. Down the road from the statue of JFK in Hyannis, there’s a statue of the native American Iyannough, who gave Hyannis his name.

Americans have faced tough times on their journey to independence and I’m sure there are tough times ahead. But I really hope that despite all of their difficulties, the people can manage to retain the welcoming openness and friendliness that I’ve experienced everywhere this week.

Visit the US: 18 top things to do in Boston

Where to do and what to do in Cape Cod

It’s an exciting 24-hour destination – but you need to plan carefully to make the most of a short trip here.

You might not fly here for just one night, but New York is an exciting stop-over on a trip to the States and if you plan carefully you can easily fit in several of this city’s must-see landmarks in a one night/ two-day trip. Also, with cruise lines like NCL operating from the Hudson dock, it’s the perfect one night destination before heading for the high seas.

Manhattan magic
Stick to Manhattan if you’re strapped for time, it’s perfectly sized for walking and walking is the best way to get a sense of the city; from the views across the harbour at the tip of the island – take the free ferry to Staten Island for the best views of Manhattan skyline – right up to the 800 acres of Central Park.

Plan your walk to cover some of the city’s key areas:

Wall St and the commercial district at the tip of Manhattan – queue for a ticket for the Stock Exchange visitors’ gallery
Stylish SoHo (an abbreviation for SOuth of HOuston street – pronounced House-ton, expect looks of distain if you mispronounce) and Greenwich village, with quirky boutiques, hip hotels, happening bars and the uber-swish loft apartment of wealthy Manhattanites
The edgier Meatpacking district, the latest up and coming area since Greenwich and Soho up and came
Fifth Avenue for shopping, Broadway and Times Square for street-life and bustle

New York is a song that unfolds in your head as you walk, a simulated Woody Allen film set that feels hyper-real because it’s all so familiar.

One night in New York: What to do

Stay
The Sheraton on Seventh Avenue is within sight of the bright lights of Times Square and Broadway, well placed for MoMA, the Rockefeller Centre and Fifth Avenue shops, and an easy walk to Central Park. Expect to pay about $200 a night, but ask about deals and discounts
The alternative: W in Times Square is a hip midtown hotel, great for the theatre district. Or take your copy of The Collected Dorothy Parker and sit in the Algonquin Hotel (59 West 44th Street), home to the Algonquin Round Table most famously associated with the writer, though in later years she said she didn’t actually spend much time there as it was so expensive.

Eat
Butter, downtown on Lafayette St has a stylish arched interior that manages to be intimate and spacious at the same time – ask for a cosy banquette along the wall.
The alternative: It’s easy to eat on the go, pick up a breakfast ‘caw-fee’ and a doughnut from a street stall as you go; put together a posh picnic at upmarket deli Dean & Deluca or, for a classic New York experience, pick a diner at random and enjoy the staff repartee.
Note: You may want to read Anthony Bourdain’s behind-the-scenes account of the New York restaurant scene in Kitchen Confidential before venturing out to eat – you may never eat mussels again.

Drink
Enjoy the world-famous Bloody Marys and martinis at the posh King Cole Bar at the glamorous St Regis bar on 55th street, just off Fifth Avenue.
The alternative: The Ear Inn has been popular with its Soho locals since the early 1800s and the dark wood décor and retro feel has changed very little in the meantime.

Shop
Fifth Avenue for designer names, department stores, American favourites like Gap and, for European tastes, H&M. And, of course, Tiffany’s. Stand outside with takeaway coffee and a pastry – evening gloves optional.
The alternative: Greenwich Village is packed full of quirky boutiques but can be pricey.

See
The hottest shows on Broadway right now are – still – The Book of Mormon, Dear Evan Hansen and Hello Dolly!; queue up at the Times Square ticket booth to get on-the-day deals.
The alternative: The iconic Blue Man Group has shows running all over the world, see them at their original home in the Astor Place Theatre on Lafayette St. Combining multi-media theatrics, music, lighting, mime and comedy, it’s an amazing experience that should not be missed.

View
The Empire State building is the classic destination, once the tallest building in the world and the site of romantic meetings from Sleepless in Seattle to An Affair to Remember.
The alternative: ‘The Rock’ at the top of the Rockefeller Centre, close to Times Square, has uninterrupted views of the city and a great view of the Empire State! Back at ground level, skate on the famous ice rink in winter; take a tour of neighbouring NBC studios or Radio City Music Hall.

Art
The ‘big three’ are MoMA, the Guggenheim and The Met, with impressive international collections.
The alternative: Skip the European treasures and head for the Whitney Museum of American Art at 945 Madison Ave.

Two more to do
Crafty New York: Visit Purl Patchwork on Sullivan in Soho for gorgeous fabrics and sewing classes, and Purl next door for wool
Take the Sex and the City bus tour

What’s everyone in Manhattan talking about right now?
Bars: 10 Downing, Scarpetta, Monkey Bar
Hotels: Ace, Standard, Cooper Square
Shops: The entire Christopher St area, Dossier in Fort Greene, Partners and Spade in Noho (North of Houston – remember, House-ton!)

Don’t go without
The Luxe City Guide to New York, insider info on the best places to eat, drink, shop, spa, see and stay packed onto a slimline compact fold-out card; the ready-made half-day shopping shopping and activity itineraries will save you weeks of research.

And finally, if you’re nostalgic for home – though why you would be overnight I’m not sure – the New York outpost of Soho House is at 29 9th Ave

Arrival in Chile is quite a spectacular business, descending to Santiago airport over the snow-capped peaks of the Andes. Chile, stretching 2,500 miles along the south-west coast of South America, straddles three different climate zones, from arid to temperate to cool and rainy. You can trek across deserts, ski in the mountains and enjoy Mediterranean-like sunshine on the coast. The best time to visit is during the spring and summer months, which in Chile is from October to May.

It has a rather chequered recent history, particularly during the turbulent times of Pinochet rule from 1973 to 1990, during which over 200,000 Chileans were killed or exiled. Since then, the president have been democratically elected.

For a country that suffered so recently under violent dictatorship, Chile is outstandingly friendly, open and welcoming today. From the lively bustling streets of Santiago, with its uber cool nightlife, terrace restaurants and pavement bars, to the remote and beautiful islands in the Chiloe Archipelago on the South Pacific coast, there is a lively interest in and big welcome for visitors. And there is much – so much – to soak up in the country. Ideally, take at least a month and travel from the deserts of the north right into the southern archipelago – next stop the Antarctic! But if time is limited, make a bucket list …

5 must-dos in Chile

1. Drink Pisco Sour in Santiago

Make no mistake, Santiago is one cool city. With lots to see of historical interest, plenty of cultural events, gorgeous green spaces, chic places to eat and drink and vibrant nightlife, it’s the perfect city destination. And you have to try a Pisco Sour, practically the national drink, made from Pisco liquor and citrus juice, usually lime. Get over Rio, move on from Buenos Aires, Santiago is the new hip South American destination.

Where to stay: Soak up a bit of Chilean history and an peek into the home life of the former political elite. The Aubrey Hotel in the city’s lively Bellavista area, where the clientele spill out onto pavement tables at buzzing restaurants and bars, is the former home of the influential Domingo Duran Morales family, prominent in politics and business in the 20th century. The boutique hotel is still full of family portraits and heirlooms, with 15 individual and rather quirky bedrooms, landscaped gardens, sun terraces and a pool. It’s right beside the Park Metropolitan, the sixth largest urban park in the world, which adds to the sense of an oasis in the city. Rooms from $195; visit www.theaubrey.com for more information.

Where to eat: A rather posh treat in the city: soak up the best of Chilean ingredients and native cuisine at the Peumayen restaurant in Bellavista. Translated as ‘dream place’, the 10-course tasting menu (with wines to match) will lull you into a dream, as a vast array uniquely presented dishes parade through; horse steaks, fermented potato, fried pork skin, seaweed salad, lamb tongue, cow’s intestine and a bowl of stew fizzing with a volcanic stone were just a few of the more curious things we tasted; definitely an experience to savour. Expect to pay around $70 per person; visit www.peumayenchile.cl

2. Stop off at Puerto Montt, the gateway to Patagonia

The flight from Santiago to Puerto Montt takes just under two hours. Puerto Montt is a port city and salmon farming one of its main industries; Chile is the second largest salmon producer in the world and you’ll frequently see salmon cages bobbing off piers, salmon factories and laboratories.

Where to eat: Puerto Montt is a seafood-lovers paradise; visit the wonderful pier-side Caleta de Angelmo market to follow a mouth-watering trail around the stalls of super-sized mussels, giant clams, abalone, sea urchin, barnacles, piure – a red-stained fish, coloured by its natural iodine – suspended conger eels, king crabs, vast compacted seaweed slabs and a counter of hot sweet-smelling empanadas. You can eat on the benches around the market or take a wrapped tray home.

Or, try the Chilotito Marina restaurant, around the corner from the pier, after a browse through the handicraft markets, where specialties include cosy llama wool jumpers and scarves, plus jewellery made of the lapis luiz for which the country is famous.

Puerto Montt also marks the start of Patagonia, the sparsely populated region at the southern end of South America, shared by Argentina and Chile. The name comes from the word ‘patagon’, used by Magellan in the 1500s to describe the native people, as he navigated the southern tip of the country, now the Magellan Straits. The native Mapuche people, still live in the region and continue to fight for the return of their lands from the time of colonisation by the Spanish. Charles Darwin carried out extensive studies of the region in the early1800s, and in this century also, the first migration of German Lutherans arrived, invited by the government to farm and develop this sparsely populated area.

3. Eat cake in Puerto Varas

Because of the German migration from the early 1800s, the Patagonian city of Puerto Varas and its surrounding areas is marked by German/Alpine architecture, German-speaking schools and German culture. Set on the edge of the stunning Lake Llanquihue, hazy mist over the water fades every morning to reveal the majestic Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes on the far side of the lake. Chile is home to more than 2000 volcanoes, 500 of which are potentially active; in the last 20 years there have been 15 eruptions.

A 60km drive from Puerto Varas, around the edge of the lake, will take you to the town of Frutillar with its traditional German houses, German handicraft boutiques and stunning lakeside concert hall, which attracts acts from the New York Met to this town of 3,000 people.

Where to stay: The Cumbres Puerto Varas Hotel on the edge of Lake Llanquihue offers breath-taking views of the snow-capped Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes. It’s sort of a log cabin, if you can imagine a 5-star log cabin with luxurious light-filled areas where you can lounge in front of a blazing fire, and 90 contemporary bedrooms, many with lake-view balconies and terraces. It’s very much part of its natural surroundings, evidenced as much by its design as by the locally sourced produce in the dining room. And, being part of a German heritage area, this means cakes. Lots and lots of cakes. I count 13 different types one morning on the breakfast buffet. For more information visit www.cumbrespuertovaras.com

Where to eat: Try the buffet at Fogon Las Buenas Brasas for one of the best selections of Chilean meat and seafood you will find, all constantly freshly prepared by the chefs at the hot plates. Famous for its wild boar roasts and king crab chupes (casserole), it’s set at the end of a winding road with gorgeous views over the lakes, and rambling gardens to roam at the end of your meal where you can hobnob with llamas, donkeys and goats.

4. Drive up a volcano in Vicente Perez Rosales National Park

High up in the Andes, the Vicente Perez Rosales National Park is a must-see on your itinerary in this part of the world. Covering just under 1000 square miles – allow plenty of time! – there are spectacular walks through forests, alongside lakes and waterfalls, with the snowy mountain peaks an impressive backdrop to your photographs.

Where to eat: Leaving the Emerald Lake and lava waterfalls behind, we drove up the side of Orsono Volcano – inactive, but nonetheless exciting – to the El Mirador restaurant. It’s 1200 metres high, just where the chair lift starts for trips into the mountain. The restaurant is big, yet cosy and welcoming, and serves hearty fare like homemade soups and huge casseroles, which is perfect fodder in this snowy landscape. It’s snowing heavily when we leave so we forfeit our trip to the top of the volcano to see the glacier.

5. Take the ferry to the island of Chiloé

Take a trip off the beaten track and experience remote island living on Isla Grande de Chiloé Island, the largest of the 30 islands in the Chiloé Archipelago, located in the southern Pacific Ocean. Steaming across the Chacao Channel on an early morning ferry is an invigorating way to arrive, you can also fly to Chiloé on LAN Airlines and, once the bridge to the mainland is completed in the next few years, drive there. My advice is to get there quick though, while the island and the archipelago still retains the sense of being on the very edge of the world. As our guide explains, ‘Chiloé today is isolation in an isolated country’.

Community ties on the island are strong and the locals are so welcoming that you may find yourself being invited into somebody’s house for a cup of tea during your visit. Thirty of Chiloé’s churches have designated World Heritage Site status from UNESCO; in total there are over 160 native timber structures, all brightly painted, elaborately decorated and dating from the 18th century.

Where to stay: Hotel Tierra, looking out to sea and the islands of the archipelago, is less of a hotel, more of a posh private pad: an ultra modern wood and stone design with floor to ceiling windows making the most of the view and just 12 bedrooms. Part of the very chic Tierra group, it is ranked in Conde Nast Traveler’s ‘Hot List’ and ‘Best Splurges’.

Given its remote location, prices are all inclusive – from $1650 for two nights – and the hotel offers lots of excursions and diversions for its guests. A team of guides offer tailored half-day and full-day outings, including boating, horse riding, biking, cultural trips, trekking and nature walks. The hotel has its own large cruiser, for trips to the islands of the archipelago, with lunch, snacks and drinks supplied on board and the chance to whizz around the bay in a speedboat or go sea kayaking during the outing. Watch out for penguins – we had a whole colony swim alongside the boat for a short while on our journey back from the islands! Visit www.tierrachiloe.com for more information

Chile: more information
For more information on Chile go to www.chile.travel

Chile: getting there
Return flights from London Heathrow to Santiago via Sao Paulo with TAM Airlines and internal flights to Puerto Montt returning from Chiloe with LAN Airlines start from £1,324 including all taxes. To book, visit www.tam.com.br or www.lan.com

What do you think of when you think of Miami? If it’s Don Johnson in pushed-up sleeves, thin girls jogging in bikinis in South Beach and a couple of scenes from Scarface, then I was right there with you. Right up to the time I boarded a flight to Miami International and had my preconceptions kicked all the way down Ocean Drive.

Yes, there’s jogging on the beach boardwalk, there’s also the stunning architecture of the South Beach Art Deco district, the most concentrated area of Art Deco buildings in the world. Yes, there are dogs in handbags, in pushchairs and wearing sunglasses – I mean it! – there’s also the New World Centre, a stunning indoor space designed by Frank Gehry that also has an outdoor theatre and is home to Miami’s New World Symphony.

Yes, there’s the clubbing fraternity on Ocean Drive, there’s also the Wynwood Art District, which is home to over 100 artist studios and exciting street art in midtown Miami. Hire a talking Go-car (two-seater souped up go-cart that can be driven on all roads) for a self-guided tour of the city that offers a lot more besides beach life and clubbing. And hold on to your hat because it can be hairy driving down four-lane highways on the ‘wrong’ side of the road as trucks roar along beside you!

The Art Deco district is a great place to start exploring. Part of the South Beach area, it’s a great mix of sociability, celebrity and architecture. Many of the buzzing cafés, restaurants and bars stay open all night; celebrity owners include Danny DeVito and Gloria Estefan, and P Diddy recently attended the re-opening party of the iconic Essex hotel accompanied by an entourage of penguins. The stunning Art Deco designs in this area house many of Miami’s most elegant hotels with original 1920s and ‘30s interiors – and if you’re not staying in one you should definitely pop in for a look.

Art Deco tour

The most photographed building in Miami is famous not only for its architecture. It’s Gianni Versace’s mansion, where the designer was gunned down on the steps outside as he returned from his daily breakfast at the nearby News Café. Now a private club and hotel, visits are by invitation only but no need to hanker for one unless you are the type of person who drops over $200 on a round of four drinks (which is what you can expect to spend once inside, we got the lowdown from our guide Paula on the Art Deco tour – visit www.artdecowalks.com for more information).

Eat: Chill day or night at the News Café, it’s open 24 hours. The buzzy pavement tables are the place to see and be seen, inside is no less busy and the newsagents that gives the cafe its name does a roaring trade in international papers and magazines. Treat yourself to dessert from an impressive list that includes local favourites Key Lime pie and salted caramel cake (though we can’t vouch for the nachos with ice cream …)

Visit: The Wolfsonian gallery, with several floors of artefacts dating from 1885 to 1945, puts Art Deco in context. This impressive private collection – and the building it’s housed in – was a gift to the city from Mitchell Wolfson Jr.

Culture sampling

For something completely different, head to Little Havana on the Miami mainland, across the bridge from Miami beach and island homes of the rich and famous – Will Smith, P Diddy, J-Lo and Tony Bennett all live here. As well as the stars, Miami is home to one of the largest Cuban communities in the world – the closest thing you’ll experience to Havana without actually going to Cuba; you might not hear a word of English during your visit. Take a local tour with Dragonfly Expeditions for the insider lowdown.

Eat: Versailles is the place to eat if you’re a local and also a huge draw for tourists – the snazzy ‘70s decor is certainly eye-catching – fill up on hearty tamales, rice and beans, plantain and yucca. As well as Cuban, Latin American influences are huge here. Away from Miami beach, in the fashionable Ocean Grove area with its stylish boutiques, hotels and restaurants, the places to eat are Jaguar, mixing foods and flavours from Mexico to South America, and Sushisamba, an international brand blending Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cuisine.

Visit: Pedro Bello was imprisoned for 20 years for refusing to co-operate with Castro’s regime but was released to come to the US where he set up the Cuba Tobacco Cigar Company with his son Peter; you’ll find him now sitting inside the door, sampling the produce for quality control in one of the most famous cigar shops in the world.

Art walks

And if you time your visit mid month, don’t miss the buzz of the Wynwood Second Saturday on a lively weekend night when the galleries throw their doors open to the public. But this is no sedate standing around nodding seriously at artworks, makeshift bars serve drinks, DJs strut their stuff on outdoor decks and it’s party time.

Eat at the area’s hotspot, the Wynwood Kitchen, known as much for its tapas-style sharing cuisine as for its arresting interiors, the walls blaze with original artwork from Miami’s coolest street artists.

Visit: The Wynwood Walls on the second Saturday of the month and browse art to your heart’s content.

Where to stay

The Palms, South Beach

For direct access to Miami’s beach culture, stay at The Palms. Beautiful marbled interiors lead to gorgeous tropical gardens with a pool and through a gate to the boardwalk and the sea. There are 251 bedrooms on 12 floors, many with sea views from the huge floor-to-ceiling windows, and after its recent renovation the hotel is stylish, contemporary and luxuriously comfortable. Plus its Essensia restaurant – with indoor and al-fresco tables – is fast gaining popularity with local gourmands.
Booking: The Palms Hotel & Spa, 3025 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; phone 305 534 0505 or visit www.thepalmshotel.com

Sonesta Bayfront Hotel

Looming high over the buildings of the fashionable Ocean Grove area, front-facing bedrooms at the Sonesta offer stunning views over the harbour and several million dollars worth of yachts. The pool, sundeck and dining room are eight floors up with unspoiled views of Biscayne Bay; the award-winning Panorama restaurant is attracting a big local following for its Peruvian inspired dishes. Many rooms offer studio-style accommodation with full kitchen facilities – a great choice for a family break.
Booking: Sonesta Bayfront Hotel, 2889 McFarlane Road, Coconut Grove; phone 305 529 2828 or visit www.sonesta.com/CoconutGrove

More information
For the complete low-down on Miami visit www.miamiandbeaches.com