Out of the North Pennines, the stunning landscape of cathedral and castle rises to meet you on the Durham approach. Few towns have such an imposing aspect from such a distance. And the power of its beauty is in keeping with its historical power. Durham has been the seat of princes and bishops for centuries.

It all started with a saint in a coffin and some very tired monks

This impressive city began life as a simple timber shrine to St Cuthbert, who was bishop of Lindisfarne, a small monastic community on an island off the north coast of England, at the end of the 7th century. Unfortunately, it was rather popular with the Vikings and the monks were forced to flee at the end of the 9th century, taking the bones of Cuthbert with them. After walking for a long time – 100 years apparently – they reached a peninsula in the River Wear past which the coffin could not be moved no further and so they laid him to rest.

Reports of many miracles attracted pilgrims to the shrine which eventually became a church, then a cathedral as Durham began to grow. And his shrine is still in the cathedral today, where a simple stone slab behind the high altar marks his final resting place. It’s also the final resting place of St Bede and the head of St Oswald of Northumbria, who sent St Aidan to Lindisfarne to found the monastery that produced Cuthbert.

As well as famous relics and a head, cathedral treasures include three copies of Magna Carta, signed by King John 1215, laying down the earliest foundations of the English constitution.

Durham: cathedral city

It’s hard to escape the cathedral’s draw in the city as the mighty Romanesque building dominates the hilly streets. Beside it, Durham Castle was built as a fort in 1072 and today forms part of the halls of residence for the university, but it’s still possible to arrange a visit.

What to do: The Durham Museum & Heritage Centre presents the story of the origins of the city under the rule of its prince bishops; outside the town the Beamish open-air museum looks at the more recent history of the 19th and 20th century and the mining and industrial workers who lived here; take a trip down the Wear on a river cruise and step off to visit the ruined abbey of Finchale Priory managed by the National Trust; get more information on all local attractions in Durham’s visitor centre, located in the 19th century almshouse World Heritage Site.

Where to stay: Treat yourself to some 5-star luxury after your tour of the city and head for the beautiful countryside, to Rockliffe Hall in the village of Hurworth, a short drive away. Opt for a room in the Old Hall to continue the historic vibe – and you can even bring your dog.

Cathedrals of Britain: North of England and Scotland by Bernadette Fallon is published by Pen and Sword books, £12.99, buy online here